Had work done=Alt. belts changed,Tune-up, ignition rotor,oil change, flush power steering. Drove it to Cali. from Vegas and back a week later. Got back was smelling hot engine looked under the hood noticed radiator was craking on top by hose! Replaced radiator and 3 weeks now every 20-30 miles the engine smells hot. Can you help me?Also how do you know if the head gasket is blown?O-kay,How do you know if you have a blown gasket?
Do you have antifreeze mixing in the engine oil? Check oil if it has a milkshake appearance you probably have a blowed head gasket.
You can also do a cylinder compression test to know for sure.O-kay,How do you know if you have a blown gasket?
Garage /Repair shop..trained technicians analyze ,check and answer question otherwise internet guessO-kay,How do you know if you have a blown gasket?
open the rad cap(not on a hot engine!) and start the engine, if you see bubbles its a headgasketO-kay,How do you know if you have a blown gasket?
there are a couple of ways i know of start car cold feel top Radiator hoes if get hare right away after star be for en g Worms blown head gasket leak down test of coolant System wart er in the eng oil indicated by a milky looking oil on the dip stick oil in coolant SYSTEM all good indicate that the head gasket are blown and quite possible cracked heads good luck with your problemO-kay,How do you know if you have a blown gasket?
the engine will either blow steam from the mating surface of the two parts, or your exhaust will be white(steamy) in color.O-kay,How do you know if you have a blown gasket?
a comparative compression test, a cylinder leak down lest, LOOK at the oil ( a blown head gasket usually leaks water into the oil making it look way different.) steam or white smoke out the tail pipe along with a radiator that cannot stay full is a good sign of a failing head gasket. looking back at your question i have to ask one question though. on some vehicles there is a thermostatic bleed port so that you can bleed the air out of that housing, with out doing so that thermostat will not open. Accuras an Hondas are part of that group of cars.
Thursday, June 2, 2011
How much does it cost to Change brake front wheel rotors?
I have a Mazda 626 and my car shakes a lot when i brake and am at a complete stop. Just wanted to know how much does it cost , roughly of courseHow much does it cost to Change brake front wheel rotors?
The price of new rotors has really come down in the last few years. That shouldn't be a real expensive rotor. Big hassle in removing the inter bearing and relubing everything, unless you are lucky enough to have %26quot;slip-on%26quot; rotors, in which case it is a snap. How much does it cost? They are all different, just call your autozone or napa dealer and get a price. Prices vary so shop around.
The price of new rotors has really come down in the last few years. That shouldn't be a real expensive rotor. Big hassle in removing the inter bearing and relubing everything, unless you are lucky enough to have %26quot;slip-on%26quot; rotors, in which case it is a snap. How much does it cost? They are all different, just call your autozone or napa dealer and get a price. Prices vary so shop around.
My rotor looks like a frisbee!!!?
how do i change a disc rotor on a 92 ford ranger. do i just take it off and put a new one on or do i have to repack bearings and get new seals? i just need one, weird how one rotor had absolutly nothing wrong with it and the other i swear i kid you not looked like a frisbee.My rotor looks like a frisbee!!!?
Forget machining if it looks like a frisbee, it is too far gone to machine. You will have to remove bearings and seals to replace the rotor. Repack and reseal as necessary if you can get off without damaging. Does the vehicle pull to one side when braking? You may have one caliper sticking or a clogged brake hose on one side. Both sides should wear evenly. Have it checked by a professional, you don't want to mess around with something as important as the braking system.
Update: Just replace the side that is frisbee shaped if you already had the other side replaced. Weight has nothing to do with it. You can use the same bearings and seals over again if not damaged. The bearings will come out easily. I usually take out the outer bearing then install the nut back on the spindle a few turns, then tilt the rotor downward and pull outward on the rotor, catching the edge of the inner bearing on the nut on the way out. In one swift motion you can remove the inner bearing and seal at the same time and not damage either. They will stay on the spindle, behind the spindle nut. This may sound confusing, but if someone helped replace the other side, it may be time to call on them again.My rotor looks like a frisbee!!!?
dont replace the rotor...have it Machined (cheaper..more effective too)
does your car %26quot;shimmy%26quot;%26quot;vibrate%26quot; when coming to a stop?
that would indicate rotors..if its just squealing its the pads.My rotor looks like a frisbee!!!?
If it looks like a frisbee it's too far gone to be machined. Most cars and trucks do not require you to take the hub off. the rotor is usually pressed onto a fitting with the wheel bolts. If only one is damaged I would have both the calipers checked. Either one isn't working ( the perfect rotor) or one is somehow chewing up the rotor.My rotor looks like a frisbee!!!?
you need to take it to a shop and have it checked if it wore off that uneven there is a reason for it,they may be able to repair it fairly cheap,,there probably wont be enough of it left to actually have it turned,,or machined down,,so you may need a new one for it,,it would be a good idea to have it checked out really good though before you go having a lot of money spent on it,,i hope this helps.My rotor looks like a frisbee!!!?
Yes the bearings need to be repacked and the seal replaced.
The rotor can be machined as long as it is not worn or warped too bad. However if one is worse off than the other, there is another problem. The caliper may need to be serviced also
(both sides), or a brake hose is defective.My rotor looks like a frisbee!!!?
ONE LOOKS GOOD AND ONE LOOKS BAD BECAUSE UR CALIPER IS FAULTY....
GOOD LUCKMy rotor looks like a frisbee!!!?
check the rotor if it isn't scarred really bad change the pads and re pack the bearings if you nee to, other than that don't worry about it. I'm a mechanic and i can tell you this. no your rotor comes off the Axel and leaving it in place you have to take the break caliper off and then remove rotor then put the new one on and connect the caliper back up. if you need any further info email me.My rotor looks like a frisbee!!!?
Not only do you need a new rotor, but brake pads too. You can by cheap rotors that have been machined from auto shops and brake pads r cheap. Remember to bleed the brakes after putting it all back on.is hindu name mobile
Forget machining if it looks like a frisbee, it is too far gone to machine. You will have to remove bearings and seals to replace the rotor. Repack and reseal as necessary if you can get off without damaging. Does the vehicle pull to one side when braking? You may have one caliper sticking or a clogged brake hose on one side. Both sides should wear evenly. Have it checked by a professional, you don't want to mess around with something as important as the braking system.
Update: Just replace the side that is frisbee shaped if you already had the other side replaced. Weight has nothing to do with it. You can use the same bearings and seals over again if not damaged. The bearings will come out easily. I usually take out the outer bearing then install the nut back on the spindle a few turns, then tilt the rotor downward and pull outward on the rotor, catching the edge of the inner bearing on the nut on the way out. In one swift motion you can remove the inner bearing and seal at the same time and not damage either. They will stay on the spindle, behind the spindle nut. This may sound confusing, but if someone helped replace the other side, it may be time to call on them again.My rotor looks like a frisbee!!!?
dont replace the rotor...have it Machined (cheaper..more effective too)
does your car %26quot;shimmy%26quot;%26quot;vibrate%26quot; when coming to a stop?
that would indicate rotors..if its just squealing its the pads.My rotor looks like a frisbee!!!?
If it looks like a frisbee it's too far gone to be machined. Most cars and trucks do not require you to take the hub off. the rotor is usually pressed onto a fitting with the wheel bolts. If only one is damaged I would have both the calipers checked. Either one isn't working ( the perfect rotor) or one is somehow chewing up the rotor.My rotor looks like a frisbee!!!?
you need to take it to a shop and have it checked if it wore off that uneven there is a reason for it,they may be able to repair it fairly cheap,,there probably wont be enough of it left to actually have it turned,,or machined down,,so you may need a new one for it,,it would be a good idea to have it checked out really good though before you go having a lot of money spent on it,,i hope this helps.My rotor looks like a frisbee!!!?
Yes the bearings need to be repacked and the seal replaced.
The rotor can be machined as long as it is not worn or warped too bad. However if one is worse off than the other, there is another problem. The caliper may need to be serviced also
(both sides), or a brake hose is defective.My rotor looks like a frisbee!!!?
ONE LOOKS GOOD AND ONE LOOKS BAD BECAUSE UR CALIPER IS FAULTY....
GOOD LUCKMy rotor looks like a frisbee!!!?
check the rotor if it isn't scarred really bad change the pads and re pack the bearings if you nee to, other than that don't worry about it. I'm a mechanic and i can tell you this. no your rotor comes off the Axel and leaving it in place you have to take the break caliper off and then remove rotor then put the new one on and connect the caliper back up. if you need any further info email me.My rotor looks like a frisbee!!!?
Not only do you need a new rotor, but brake pads too. You can by cheap rotors that have been machined from auto shops and brake pads r cheap. Remember to bleed the brakes after putting it all back on.
2000 Grand Am Brake Issues Spongy?!?
I recently had the front rotors and pads on a 2000 Grand am SE. when I went to pump the brakes with the car off, the pedal became firm, then when I turned the car on, the pedal became spongy and unresponsive. Took it back to the mechanic a few days later, they said they would bleed the brakes, yet the pedal is still spongy, Master cylinder is fine, worked perfectly before the pads/rotors change. Could this be perhaps that they did not do a full system brake bleed?? PLEASE help, winter is coming and i want to have good brakes for the snow!! I heard maybe the brake pads just need to be worn in, if this is true, how long will it take for my brakes to go back to normal? Also wondering how much it could cost if i take it to someone to bleed the entire system and do nothing else? thanks2000 Grand Am Brake Issues Spongy?!?
Wow, I'm seeing some really incorrect information in the answers to this question.
The brake hydraulics are separate from the brake friction materials. The hydraulics must never have any type of air introduced into their system or a spongy or poor pedal, if any at all, may result. However, the only required disturbance to the hydraulic system when replacing pads is to retract the pistons back into the caliper to allow for the thickness of the new brake pads. This does not require opening the bleeder valve or disconnecting any hydraulics at all. So, stating that the system must be bled when replacing pads is incorrect. The only reason for it to be bled is because the system was opened and may have possibly allowed air to enter. So, if the shop removed the caliper from the brake hose or opened the bleeder valve, then they should be bled. Otherwise, it is not a requirement.
Next we go to the power booster. The booster uses engine vacuum to give an easier pedal to push. If the booster is bad, or if the vacuum line to it from the engine is bad or has a problem, it will definitely not give you a spongy pedal, it will give a very stiff and hard pedal, just like you felt when you push the pedal down a couple of times with the engine off. You lose the assist, therefore resulting in a hard pedal, not a spongy pedal.
New brakes may often feel different from the ones replaced. Correctly stated by Thomas E., the new pads need to %26quot;burnish%26quot; or seat themselves to the rotors. Once this has happened, the feel of the pedal normally improves. While the new pads and rotors are mating their surfaces, you must push the brake pedal harder to achieve the same friction on the parts as you use to, and the pedal feels spongier. I do disagree that the extra 10mm gives springiness or sponginess. Pads are very hard and do not %26quot;give%26quot; or compress at all.
Another thing to look at is the adjustment of the rear drum brake shoes. Although they may not have been touched by this shop, the combination of the rear brakes being out of adjustment and the new friction parts still breaking in may be giving you the sponginess you are feeling. When the shoes are out of adjustment, the brake pedal must move further to engage the rear brake shoes based off the combination valve regulating pressure to the front brakes before the rear brakes are engaged.
I have found success on the midsize GM vehicles with 4wheel ABS by cycling the ABS pump valves and solenoids and using the proper full system bleed procedure, not just a quick bleed at the wheels. Cycling the solenoids and valves requires a scanner capable of accessing and performing these functions. The dealer and a quality repair shop will have this scanner, but expect to pay $100 or so for this complete system bleeding service due to the complexity and tools required.
I didnt want to confuse you before when talking about opening the hydraulic system when doing a brake job. Although it is not necessary or required to do this or bleed the system when done, it is highly recommended to incorporate a specific method for retracting the pistons into the calipers that requires opening the bleeder valve on the caliper as the pistons are retracted. This allows the old dirty brake fluid to exit the system instead of being forced back up the lines against any check valves or where moisture in the fluid can corrode expensive ABS components. Since you should change your brake fluid every couple years anyway, this would be any ideal time to do this. Read the article at diynetwork, it shows pictures and states my opinion eloquently.
A good mechanic may still have to go through a full inspection and various types of bleeding operations including using the scan tool to try to correct this issue. It should not be boiled down to thinking a technician is poor if it takes him more than a half hour to do this. Especially if he did the brake job by the books and is now trying to hunt down what the heck happened and why you are unsatisfied.
By the way, have you heard of ASE Certification? An ASE certified Brake Technician is tested on situations like this and would know that a bad line to the booster would give a hard pedal, not a soft pedal, and would also be tested on knowing that some vehicles may have to have their pumps cycled. Find out if your shop is using an ASE certified brake technician. Experience doesnt count if it is bad experience.2000 Grand Am Brake Issues Spongy?!?
If pads and rotors were all that was done on the front then there's no need to bleed the system, if they took calipers off then a bleed would be needed. I'd take it back to them and advise they diagnose the system correctly.2000 Grand Am Brake Issues Spongy?!?
Bring it back to the same shop since they're the ones that did the job. They may hook you up for free since you're unhappy with their service. You don't need to bleed out the entire system though, just bleed out any air that may be trapped. Most of the time, a correctly done brake job needs no bleeding at all, if only doing the rotors and pads.2000 Grand Am Brake Issues Spongy?!?
When you pump the brakes %26quot;with the car off%26quot; all the vacuum power assist is used up after about 3 pumps. that is why the pedal got hard because there is no more power assist. it is normal for new brakes to feel more flexible than worn out brakes. you have an extra 10 mm of pad material that will compress some. also the pads may not be bedded to the discs yet adding a little more springiness to the system. most disc and pad changes won't even require bleeding the brakes. if no air is introduced into the system there should be no reason to bleed the brakes. Usually (?) the mechanic should just suck some fluid out of the reservoir and then pry back the pistons which pushes fluid back into the master cylinder reservoir. you don't say if it STOPS ok. if it stops ok - drive it several 100 miles and i think the pedal will start to feel firmer.2000 Grand Am Brake Issues Spongy?!?
When I replace brake pads I pop the top of the reservoir beforehand, and after the new pads are on, I bleed the brakes ALWAYS. It is indeed necessary to bleed the brakes after changing brake pads.
I think there are two possibilities. The first is that the power brake booster is bad (most likely)... that's the thing on the firewall that looks like two serving bowls put lip-to-lip, or less likely the brake system still needs bleeding.
The brake booster uses vacuum from the engine to operate. If the vacuum line to the booster is leaking or the booster developed a leak, then you will certainly notice the exact symptoms you mentioned.
ALSO DO NOT take the car back to those bozos. A REAL mechanic should be able to spot that problem in 30 seconds.
Wow, I'm seeing some really incorrect information in the answers to this question.
The brake hydraulics are separate from the brake friction materials. The hydraulics must never have any type of air introduced into their system or a spongy or poor pedal, if any at all, may result. However, the only required disturbance to the hydraulic system when replacing pads is to retract the pistons back into the caliper to allow for the thickness of the new brake pads. This does not require opening the bleeder valve or disconnecting any hydraulics at all. So, stating that the system must be bled when replacing pads is incorrect. The only reason for it to be bled is because the system was opened and may have possibly allowed air to enter. So, if the shop removed the caliper from the brake hose or opened the bleeder valve, then they should be bled. Otherwise, it is not a requirement.
Next we go to the power booster. The booster uses engine vacuum to give an easier pedal to push. If the booster is bad, or if the vacuum line to it from the engine is bad or has a problem, it will definitely not give you a spongy pedal, it will give a very stiff and hard pedal, just like you felt when you push the pedal down a couple of times with the engine off. You lose the assist, therefore resulting in a hard pedal, not a spongy pedal.
New brakes may often feel different from the ones replaced. Correctly stated by Thomas E., the new pads need to %26quot;burnish%26quot; or seat themselves to the rotors. Once this has happened, the feel of the pedal normally improves. While the new pads and rotors are mating their surfaces, you must push the brake pedal harder to achieve the same friction on the parts as you use to, and the pedal feels spongier. I do disagree that the extra 10mm gives springiness or sponginess. Pads are very hard and do not %26quot;give%26quot; or compress at all.
Another thing to look at is the adjustment of the rear drum brake shoes. Although they may not have been touched by this shop, the combination of the rear brakes being out of adjustment and the new friction parts still breaking in may be giving you the sponginess you are feeling. When the shoes are out of adjustment, the brake pedal must move further to engage the rear brake shoes based off the combination valve regulating pressure to the front brakes before the rear brakes are engaged.
I have found success on the midsize GM vehicles with 4wheel ABS by cycling the ABS pump valves and solenoids and using the proper full system bleed procedure, not just a quick bleed at the wheels. Cycling the solenoids and valves requires a scanner capable of accessing and performing these functions. The dealer and a quality repair shop will have this scanner, but expect to pay $100 or so for this complete system bleeding service due to the complexity and tools required.
I didnt want to confuse you before when talking about opening the hydraulic system when doing a brake job. Although it is not necessary or required to do this or bleed the system when done, it is highly recommended to incorporate a specific method for retracting the pistons into the calipers that requires opening the bleeder valve on the caliper as the pistons are retracted. This allows the old dirty brake fluid to exit the system instead of being forced back up the lines against any check valves or where moisture in the fluid can corrode expensive ABS components. Since you should change your brake fluid every couple years anyway, this would be any ideal time to do this. Read the article at diynetwork, it shows pictures and states my opinion eloquently.
A good mechanic may still have to go through a full inspection and various types of bleeding operations including using the scan tool to try to correct this issue. It should not be boiled down to thinking a technician is poor if it takes him more than a half hour to do this. Especially if he did the brake job by the books and is now trying to hunt down what the heck happened and why you are unsatisfied.
By the way, have you heard of ASE Certification? An ASE certified Brake Technician is tested on situations like this and would know that a bad line to the booster would give a hard pedal, not a soft pedal, and would also be tested on knowing that some vehicles may have to have their pumps cycled. Find out if your shop is using an ASE certified brake technician. Experience doesnt count if it is bad experience.2000 Grand Am Brake Issues Spongy?!?
If pads and rotors were all that was done on the front then there's no need to bleed the system, if they took calipers off then a bleed would be needed. I'd take it back to them and advise they diagnose the system correctly.2000 Grand Am Brake Issues Spongy?!?
Bring it back to the same shop since they're the ones that did the job. They may hook you up for free since you're unhappy with their service. You don't need to bleed out the entire system though, just bleed out any air that may be trapped. Most of the time, a correctly done brake job needs no bleeding at all, if only doing the rotors and pads.2000 Grand Am Brake Issues Spongy?!?
When you pump the brakes %26quot;with the car off%26quot; all the vacuum power assist is used up after about 3 pumps. that is why the pedal got hard because there is no more power assist. it is normal for new brakes to feel more flexible than worn out brakes. you have an extra 10 mm of pad material that will compress some. also the pads may not be bedded to the discs yet adding a little more springiness to the system. most disc and pad changes won't even require bleeding the brakes. if no air is introduced into the system there should be no reason to bleed the brakes. Usually (?) the mechanic should just suck some fluid out of the reservoir and then pry back the pistons which pushes fluid back into the master cylinder reservoir. you don't say if it STOPS ok. if it stops ok - drive it several 100 miles and i think the pedal will start to feel firmer.2000 Grand Am Brake Issues Spongy?!?
When I replace brake pads I pop the top of the reservoir beforehand, and after the new pads are on, I bleed the brakes ALWAYS. It is indeed necessary to bleed the brakes after changing brake pads.
I think there are two possibilities. The first is that the power brake booster is bad (most likely)... that's the thing on the firewall that looks like two serving bowls put lip-to-lip, or less likely the brake system still needs bleeding.
The brake booster uses vacuum from the engine to operate. If the vacuum line to the booster is leaking or the booster developed a leak, then you will certainly notice the exact symptoms you mentioned.
ALSO DO NOT take the car back to those bozos. A REAL mechanic should be able to spot that problem in 30 seconds.
Anyone have a link/directions on how to change the front rotors on a '99 Montero?
Buy the repair book on Montero's
Mechanic ripped me off! Where can I take a course to learn how to fix my own car?
Hi all...any advice on where I can take a course to fix my own car...no matter what the problem. Brakes, check engine light is on, rotors, changing tires...all of that stuff?
Do I have to take a course at a technical college or something to become a mechanic? OR can I just go to the local community college and get a quick run-through about how to repair automobiles? I do know how to do the simple stuff like, change a tire, install/remove a battery, and change the wipers...that's elementary stuff. Where can I learn how to accomplish the difficult tasks?Mechanic ripped me off! Where can I take a course to learn how to fix my own car?
yeah, wyo tech was a good start but still quite incomplete, your local community collage is a good place to start.Mechanic ripped me off! Where can I take a course to learn how to fix my own car?
Firstly you can go on the internet and look for step by step instructions on how to fix more difficult projects. Look for videos, pics, documents, ect. There are schools you can search for known as trade schools where they teach you about automobile repairs. It's not going to be a %26quot;quick run-through%26quot; but it will be worth it if you dont want to get ripped off anymore.Mechanic ripped me off! Where can I take a course to learn how to fix my own car?
go to WYOTECH its 9months long and its freakin awsome
Do I have to take a course at a technical college or something to become a mechanic? OR can I just go to the local community college and get a quick run-through about how to repair automobiles? I do know how to do the simple stuff like, change a tire, install/remove a battery, and change the wipers...that's elementary stuff. Where can I learn how to accomplish the difficult tasks?Mechanic ripped me off! Where can I take a course to learn how to fix my own car?
yeah, wyo tech was a good start but still quite incomplete, your local community collage is a good place to start.Mechanic ripped me off! Where can I take a course to learn how to fix my own car?
Firstly you can go on the internet and look for step by step instructions on how to fix more difficult projects. Look for videos, pics, documents, ect. There are schools you can search for known as trade schools where they teach you about automobile repairs. It's not going to be a %26quot;quick run-through%26quot; but it will be worth it if you dont want to get ripped off anymore.Mechanic ripped me off! Where can I take a course to learn how to fix my own car?
go to WYOTECH its 9months long and its freakin awsome
How can you tell when it's time to replace the rotors?
I've had my brake rotors resurfaced once already, how can i tell if i need to replace them? can i have them resurfaced again? will it make them too thin? is there a chance i might not even have to touch the rotors, just change the pads?How can you tell when it%26039;s time to replace the rotors?
when your brakes don't last.How can you tell when it%26039;s time to replace the rotors?
Ask your mechanic or the guy in the machine shop to measure it for you. He should know if it's within safety standards. Check if it's bent out of shape, etc. All these depend on your driving habits, the type of car and the quality of your rotors and pads. If you have a muscle car and like to break hard, or if you drive a lot on mountain roads, it's a good investment to buy decent quality, heavy duty, vented rotors and matching pads.
The life you save maybe my own....How can you tell when it%26039;s time to replace the rotors?
Most manufacturers put out a minimum thickness for the rotors check that or go to a reputable aftermarket brand and they will also tell you the minimum thickness
To measure get some inside calipers (vernier preferably) to measure the thickness of the rotor at a number of pointsHow can you tell when it%26039;s time to replace the rotors?
Some rotors can be resurfaced and it is cheaper. Most brake shops prefer you buy rotors because there is a money factor and time involved.
The cost of resurfacing a rotor is around $15.00 each. Rotors on some cars are as little as 25.00 each. Is that price difference worth safety? In most cases the rotor has to come off of the car to be turned. There would be no change in labor to turn or replace. It actually takes longer to have your rotors turned. New ones are ready out of the box after cleaning them. Turning them takes 20 min. to a half hour each. Not good if your shop charges by time on the rack. At my shop, I prefer you buy new rotors because it is safer and the job is done right, the first time.
Hardly ever, unless the brake pads wear down to metal and damage it.Take it to a parts store and have them measure the thickness.
You must not forget about heat. There is a lot of friction on the brakes after all, that is how they stop the car. One job of the rotors is to dissipate heat.
Heat warps the rotors and also causes hard spots. Warped rotors will cause a pulsation in the brakes when they are applied. Rust is also a factor in replacing rotors. I have seen too many to count that have been rusted. I recommend every time you change pads or every other time at least. I know there is some expense there but, ask your self what is the cost of not stopping when you need to. How can you tell when it%26039;s time to replace the rotors?
it depends on how much they took off of them the first time they were turned. i believe i would just get onesHow can you tell when it%26039;s time to replace the rotors?
typically i would leave the rotors alone unless i feel 'shaking' in the steering wheel when I'm braking. Depending on the type of vehicle and how bad the rotors were initially the first time you had them turned, i would say that it is safe to have them turned twice. Also whoever turns them for you should measure them and let you know if they are safe to turn. Hope this helps
when your brakes don't last.How can you tell when it%26039;s time to replace the rotors?
Ask your mechanic or the guy in the machine shop to measure it for you. He should know if it's within safety standards. Check if it's bent out of shape, etc. All these depend on your driving habits, the type of car and the quality of your rotors and pads. If you have a muscle car and like to break hard, or if you drive a lot on mountain roads, it's a good investment to buy decent quality, heavy duty, vented rotors and matching pads.
The life you save maybe my own....How can you tell when it%26039;s time to replace the rotors?
Most manufacturers put out a minimum thickness for the rotors check that or go to a reputable aftermarket brand and they will also tell you the minimum thickness
To measure get some inside calipers (vernier preferably) to measure the thickness of the rotor at a number of pointsHow can you tell when it%26039;s time to replace the rotors?
Some rotors can be resurfaced and it is cheaper. Most brake shops prefer you buy rotors because there is a money factor and time involved.
The cost of resurfacing a rotor is around $15.00 each. Rotors on some cars are as little as 25.00 each. Is that price difference worth safety? In most cases the rotor has to come off of the car to be turned. There would be no change in labor to turn or replace. It actually takes longer to have your rotors turned. New ones are ready out of the box after cleaning them. Turning them takes 20 min. to a half hour each. Not good if your shop charges by time on the rack. At my shop, I prefer you buy new rotors because it is safer and the job is done right, the first time.
Hardly ever, unless the brake pads wear down to metal and damage it.Take it to a parts store and have them measure the thickness.
You must not forget about heat. There is a lot of friction on the brakes after all, that is how they stop the car. One job of the rotors is to dissipate heat.
Heat warps the rotors and also causes hard spots. Warped rotors will cause a pulsation in the brakes when they are applied. Rust is also a factor in replacing rotors. I have seen too many to count that have been rusted. I recommend every time you change pads or every other time at least. I know there is some expense there but, ask your self what is the cost of not stopping when you need to. How can you tell when it%26039;s time to replace the rotors?
it depends on how much they took off of them the first time they were turned. i believe i would just get onesHow can you tell when it%26039;s time to replace the rotors?
typically i would leave the rotors alone unless i feel 'shaking' in the steering wheel when I'm braking. Depending on the type of vehicle and how bad the rotors were initially the first time you had them turned, i would say that it is safe to have them turned twice. Also whoever turns them for you should measure them and let you know if they are safe to turn. Hope this helps
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