I have a 1999 Honda Accord and it needs new brakes and possibly rotors. I know brakes are easy to do but how about the rotors? Are any special tools needed to change or turn the rotors? I dont have a big shop or anything but do have the tools to do most repairs. Just wondering if this is a job to take somewhere or do it yourself. Thanks!Can I replace my brakes/rotors myself?
Its cheaper to get a new rotor ($20) than to have a shop lathe it for you. With the wheel and caliper off. To remove the rotor all you need to do is remove two screws in the middle of the rotor. It takes a fatheaded Phillips screwdriver.
I would rate it a 3 out of 10 on the difficulty scale.Can I replace my brakes/rotors myself?
Disc brakes are probably on of the easiest things for a do it yourselfer. If you've never done it before either buy a repair manual or have someone with experience help you. If the rotors need to be turned you can't do them yourself unless you have a brake lathe. Most auto parts stores like Autozone, O'Reilys, Carquest, NAPA, etc can turn them for you. It's pretty easy.Can I replace my brakes/rotors myself?
You can change your own brakes and rotors! For the rotors you have to have a rotor tool. It is a three pronged tool to pull the rotors off.Can I replace my brakes/rotors myself?
ya listen to them they know what there talking about, but ya take it to a repair man it will get done in no time and its not real exspensive if you already have the part. hope this helps.Can I replace my brakes/rotors myself?
Actually it is EXPENSIVE they will charge you about $50 just for changing the pads and that you can do in 30 minutes. so unless you make like 50 dollars an hour. DO IT YOURSELF IS NOT SO DIFFICULTCan I replace my brakes/rotors myself?
What I do is easy. Take the car and put jack stands under both sides and remove both tires. Now working on one side at a time remove the cal. and the rotor. OK, now put it back together in reverse. If you forgot how, to use the other side to reminder you. You should still have a repair book with you. Good wrenchingCan I replace my brakes/rotors myself?
It's is esy to change brakes and rotors DIY. To remove the old rotors you need to remove brake caliper brackets first. Once the brackets come off, the rotors should be easy to remove. There are screws that hold the rotors down, use lots of WD40 on them and use appropriate screw driver to take them out. If the rotors are hard to come off, use the screw(one you take out from rotors) to drive them out(there should be screw hole/s on the rotors). If you already have tools to do most repairs then you don't have to worry about special tools, but a torque wrench would help to tighten nuts and bolts to manufacturer's specifications.Can I replace my brakes/rotors myself?
When you pull the wheel off and there are bolts through the hub,you cannot ,without replacing the bearings,replace the rotors.They are pressed together.
I wish all the Wannabes would find another category to B/S in.
Thursday, September 22, 2011
Brake Rotors?
How often do brake rotors usually need to be changed? I got a 1996 bmw sedan and i changed the brake rotors maybe 8,000-10,000 miles ago and know the brakes are starting to make some noices again so I was hoping its just the pads not the rotors also.Brake Rotors?
The rotors won't typically make the noise by themselves.
The pads will wear a lot faster than most rotors. When you have a brake job done, they typically will replace the pads and measure the rotors to see if they are still within specifications. If they are, and can be machined, they will machine the rotors. Which basically makes the rotors smooth again to give the brakes a good surface to press against.
If you let the brake pads either %26quot;bite%26quot; into the rotors by going metal to metal or even some squeal plates make a gouge in the rotors they won't be able to machine them and you'll need to get them replaced.
If you are just starting to hear noise, go get the brakes inspected before they %26quot;bite%26quot; into the rotors too deeply.Brake Rotors?
Extremely helpful but wrong. Brake rotors can absolutely cause noise and on German cars the rotors wear at the same rate as the pads. That is how they are engineered. I've replaced thousands of german brakes, I know.
if it squeaks every 2 seconds its the padsBrake Rotors?
Its a BMW. As is typical of European design the pads and rotors are engineered to wear out at the same time.Brake Rotors?
Rotors are ok I would have the pads inspected see how much life is left to them if you need brake pads then they will resurface the rotors. If you have drum brakes in the rear have them or you perform a clean and adjust this will help extend the life of the front pads cause they wont have to work as hard. If you have disc brakes in the rear do the same as the front. Also all rotors have a measurement to them and where you get your work done should be taking measurements of your rotors before performing any work. I hope this info is helpful.Brake Rotors?
If you do not have a pulsating feel when you apply the brakes, it isn't the rotors.
Did you change the pads yourself?
Did you use brake grease on the caliper pins when you reinstalled them? This is an overlooked item. Not greasing those pins will cause the caliper to not float freely, the brakes will bind up and make your brakes squeal.
Do you drive hard?
You may have overheated the brake pads and heat-cracked them.
The only way to check them is to take them off again and inspect the pads for heat stress cracks.Brake Rotors?
If you replaced them 10,000 miles ago they will not need to be changed.
Have the pad's changed and the rotors might have to be turned, which is where they put the rotors on a lathe and cut a clean straight surface on them. This can typically be done twice before they have to be replaced.
If when you put the brakes on the car shudders slightly this is an indication that they need turned. If there is any kind of audible noise it's most likely just the pads.Brake Rotors?
forget the other answers. The squealing is caused by %26quot;squealers%26quot;, they are attached to the brake pads and come into contact with the rotors when your brake pads become worn. Unless your steering wheel vibrates when you brake and the rotors are within a certain thickness, they should be fine.Have the pads changed by a Reputable shop, and if possible watch them do it as alot of places will rip you off.Brake Rotors?
Ever since Asbestos was outlawed for use in brake pads the industry has had to make more agressive friction material. These agressive brake pads grind the rotors at an advanced rate but 10,000 miles is too fast even for the new pads. You may need to change rotors everytime you redo the front brakes but they should last for 30,000 miles. Probably something else is making the noise but check the linings first just because it is the easiest thing to do. Then look to see if anything is gouging the rotor, and what it is. Check the wheel bearings too. If the caliper has frozen on one side it will have used up the other pad quickly. Do your home work. You will find it.Brake Rotors?
Get a micro meter and measure. Most BMW automotive books can tell you the acceptable thickness of the rotor. Generally, BMW rotors will last up 80K - 120K miles.
BMW cars have computer controlled pads wear sensors. They are located in Front Left wheel, and Rear Right wheel. So if it is a pads wear problem, your %26quot;brake lining%26quot; light would come on, telling you to replace the pads.
The rotors won't typically make the noise by themselves.
The pads will wear a lot faster than most rotors. When you have a brake job done, they typically will replace the pads and measure the rotors to see if they are still within specifications. If they are, and can be machined, they will machine the rotors. Which basically makes the rotors smooth again to give the brakes a good surface to press against.
If you let the brake pads either %26quot;bite%26quot; into the rotors by going metal to metal or even some squeal plates make a gouge in the rotors they won't be able to machine them and you'll need to get them replaced.
If you are just starting to hear noise, go get the brakes inspected before they %26quot;bite%26quot; into the rotors too deeply.Brake Rotors?
Extremely helpful but wrong. Brake rotors can absolutely cause noise and on German cars the rotors wear at the same rate as the pads. That is how they are engineered. I've replaced thousands of german brakes, I know.
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Brake Rotors?if it squeaks every 2 seconds its the padsBrake Rotors?
Its a BMW. As is typical of European design the pads and rotors are engineered to wear out at the same time.Brake Rotors?
Rotors are ok I would have the pads inspected see how much life is left to them if you need brake pads then they will resurface the rotors. If you have drum brakes in the rear have them or you perform a clean and adjust this will help extend the life of the front pads cause they wont have to work as hard. If you have disc brakes in the rear do the same as the front. Also all rotors have a measurement to them and where you get your work done should be taking measurements of your rotors before performing any work. I hope this info is helpful.Brake Rotors?
If you do not have a pulsating feel when you apply the brakes, it isn't the rotors.
Did you change the pads yourself?
Did you use brake grease on the caliper pins when you reinstalled them? This is an overlooked item. Not greasing those pins will cause the caliper to not float freely, the brakes will bind up and make your brakes squeal.
Do you drive hard?
You may have overheated the brake pads and heat-cracked them.
The only way to check them is to take them off again and inspect the pads for heat stress cracks.Brake Rotors?
If you replaced them 10,000 miles ago they will not need to be changed.
Have the pad's changed and the rotors might have to be turned, which is where they put the rotors on a lathe and cut a clean straight surface on them. This can typically be done twice before they have to be replaced.
If when you put the brakes on the car shudders slightly this is an indication that they need turned. If there is any kind of audible noise it's most likely just the pads.Brake Rotors?
forget the other answers. The squealing is caused by %26quot;squealers%26quot;, they are attached to the brake pads and come into contact with the rotors when your brake pads become worn. Unless your steering wheel vibrates when you brake and the rotors are within a certain thickness, they should be fine.Have the pads changed by a Reputable shop, and if possible watch them do it as alot of places will rip you off.Brake Rotors?
Ever since Asbestos was outlawed for use in brake pads the industry has had to make more agressive friction material. These agressive brake pads grind the rotors at an advanced rate but 10,000 miles is too fast even for the new pads. You may need to change rotors everytime you redo the front brakes but they should last for 30,000 miles. Probably something else is making the noise but check the linings first just because it is the easiest thing to do. Then look to see if anything is gouging the rotor, and what it is. Check the wheel bearings too. If the caliper has frozen on one side it will have used up the other pad quickly. Do your home work. You will find it.Brake Rotors?
Get a micro meter and measure. Most BMW automotive books can tell you the acceptable thickness of the rotor. Generally, BMW rotors will last up 80K - 120K miles.
BMW cars have computer controlled pads wear sensors. They are located in Front Left wheel, and Rear Right wheel. So if it is a pads wear problem, your %26quot;brake lining%26quot; light would come on, telling you to replace the pads.
What do i need to do for 100k serviceing in a 00 740i?
How do i reset my check engine light?Also i am changing all my break pads,rotor also sensors,is that going to reset my check break light too?What do i need to do for 100k serviceing in a 00 740i?
Change oil and oil filter while engine is at normal operating temperature.
Reset service interval indicator.
Replace microfilters.
Check overall thickness of front and rear disc brake pads using special tool. If replacement is necessary: Examine brake disc surfaces. Clean brake pad contact points in calipers. Grease wheel centering hubs. Check thickness of parking brake linings only when replacing rear pads.
Remove and install front and rear disc brake pads, check overall thickness. Examine brake disc surfaces. Clean brake pad contact points in calipers. Grease wheel centering hubs.
Check parking brake actuation. Adjust if necessary.
Check rear axle for leaks.
Half-shafts: Check for leaks at flexible boots.
Visually check fuel tank, lines and connections for leaks.
Check condition, position, and mounting of exhaust system. Examine for leaks.
Check power steering system for leaks. Check power steering fluid level; add fluid if necessary.
Check steering for absence of play, condition of suspension track rods, front axle joints, steering linkage and joint disc.
Check overall thickness of front and rear disc brake pads using special tool. If replacement is necessary: Examine brake disk surfaces. Clean brake pad contact points in calipers. Grease wheel centering hubs. Check thickness of parking brake linings only when replacing rear brake pads.
Remove and install front and rear disc brake pads, check overall thickness. Examine brake disc surfaces. Clean brake pad contact points in calipers. Grease wheel centering hubs.
Check front control arm bushings for wear.
Check brake system connections and lines for leaks, damage and incorrect positioning.
Check parking brake actuator. Adjust if necessary.
Check all tire pressures (including spare). Correct if necessary. Check condition of tires (outer surface [left/right]), tread wear and pattern; in case of uneven tread wear, readjust wheel alignment if requested (invoice separately).
Inspect entire body according to terms of rust performation limited warranty (must be performed at least every two years).
Read out diagnostic system.
Check engine cooling system/heater hose connections for leaks. Check coolant level and antifreeze protection level.
Add coolant if required.
Check level of brake/clutch fluid in reservoir. Add fluid if required.
Check windshield washer fluid level and antifreeze protection. Fill up and/or correct if required.
Check air conditioner for operation.
Replace microfilters. (Note: reduce replacement interval in dusty operating conditions.)
Reset service interval indicator.
Check battery state-of-charge and charge if required.
Check lighting system, i.e.: headlights, foglights, parking, back-up, license plate, interior (including map reading lights), glove box, flashlight, illuminated makeup mirrors, luggage compartment/area lights.
Check instrument panel and dashboard illumination.
Check all warning/indicator lights, check control.
Check turn signals, hazard warning flashers, brake lights, horns, headlight dimmer and flasher switch.
Check wipers and washer system(s); wiper blades, washer jet positions.
Check condition and function of safety belts.
Visually examine all SRS airbag units for torn covers, obvious damage or attachment of decals, decorations or accessories.
Check central locking/double lock.
Replace batteries for alarm remote controls in all master keys.
Check operation of all latches.
Check heater/air conditioner blower, rear window defogger.
Check rear view mirrors.
Replace air cleaner element. (Note: Reduce replacement interval in dusty operating conditions).
Replace IHKA recirculated air filters.
Time / Mileage Based service as follows:
Replace brake fluid every 2 years (time interval begins from the vehicle檚 production date - Look inside driver's door to find production date label).
Replace coolant every 4 years (time interval begins from the vehicle檚 production date).
Replace Oxygen Sensor every 100,000 miles.
Replace spark plugs every 100,000 miles.What do i need to do for 100k serviceing in a 00 740i?
If you dont have the owners manual you can always call your local dealer to find out ,
Change oil and oil filter while engine is at normal operating temperature.
Reset service interval indicator.
Replace microfilters.
Check overall thickness of front and rear disc brake pads using special tool. If replacement is necessary: Examine brake disc surfaces. Clean brake pad contact points in calipers. Grease wheel centering hubs. Check thickness of parking brake linings only when replacing rear pads.
Remove and install front and rear disc brake pads, check overall thickness. Examine brake disc surfaces. Clean brake pad contact points in calipers. Grease wheel centering hubs.
Check parking brake actuation. Adjust if necessary.
Check rear axle for leaks.
Half-shafts: Check for leaks at flexible boots.
Visually check fuel tank, lines and connections for leaks.
Check condition, position, and mounting of exhaust system. Examine for leaks.
Check power steering system for leaks. Check power steering fluid level; add fluid if necessary.
Check steering for absence of play, condition of suspension track rods, front axle joints, steering linkage and joint disc.
Check overall thickness of front and rear disc brake pads using special tool. If replacement is necessary: Examine brake disk surfaces. Clean brake pad contact points in calipers. Grease wheel centering hubs. Check thickness of parking brake linings only when replacing rear brake pads.
Remove and install front and rear disc brake pads, check overall thickness. Examine brake disc surfaces. Clean brake pad contact points in calipers. Grease wheel centering hubs.
Check front control arm bushings for wear.
Check brake system connections and lines for leaks, damage and incorrect positioning.
Check parking brake actuator. Adjust if necessary.
Check all tire pressures (including spare). Correct if necessary. Check condition of tires (outer surface [left/right]), tread wear and pattern; in case of uneven tread wear, readjust wheel alignment if requested (invoice separately).
Inspect entire body according to terms of rust performation limited warranty (must be performed at least every two years).
Read out diagnostic system.
Check engine cooling system/heater hose connections for leaks. Check coolant level and antifreeze protection level.
Add coolant if required.
Check level of brake/clutch fluid in reservoir. Add fluid if required.
Check windshield washer fluid level and antifreeze protection. Fill up and/or correct if required.
Check air conditioner for operation.
Replace microfilters. (Note: reduce replacement interval in dusty operating conditions.)
Reset service interval indicator.
Check battery state-of-charge and charge if required.
Check lighting system, i.e.: headlights, foglights, parking, back-up, license plate, interior (including map reading lights), glove box, flashlight, illuminated makeup mirrors, luggage compartment/area lights.
Check instrument panel and dashboard illumination.
Check all warning/indicator lights, check control.
Check turn signals, hazard warning flashers, brake lights, horns, headlight dimmer and flasher switch.
Check wipers and washer system(s); wiper blades, washer jet positions.
Check condition and function of safety belts.
Visually examine all SRS airbag units for torn covers, obvious damage or attachment of decals, decorations or accessories.
Check central locking/double lock.
Replace batteries for alarm remote controls in all master keys.
Check operation of all latches.
Check heater/air conditioner blower, rear window defogger.
Check rear view mirrors.
Replace air cleaner element. (Note: Reduce replacement interval in dusty operating conditions).
Replace IHKA recirculated air filters.
Time / Mileage Based service as follows:
Replace brake fluid every 2 years (time interval begins from the vehicle檚 production date - Look inside driver's door to find production date label).
Replace coolant every 4 years (time interval begins from the vehicle檚 production date).
Replace Oxygen Sensor every 100,000 miles.
Replace spark plugs every 100,000 miles.What do i need to do for 100k serviceing in a 00 740i?
If you dont have the owners manual you can always call your local dealer to find out ,
How do i check for error codes on a 1992 mitsubishi diamante??
I cannot get this car to run.. I have changed the spark plugs, rotor cap, spark plug wires, fuel pump, fuel sending unit, and it still will not start.. %26lt;PLEASE HELP%26gt;How do i check for error codes on a 1992 mitsubishi diamante??
Put in a reman brain. Your capacitors have leaked and took out the board.
Put in a reman brain. Your capacitors have leaked and took out the board.
I wonna know if i can take my 1986 oldsmobile ninety-eight to a GM dealer to get a good tune up and about how?
much would it cost basically i wonna change the plugs plug wires,rotor cap and rotor fuel filter and oil change and . also look at all the hoses and the fan belt.I wonna know if i can take my 1986 oldsmobile ninety-eight to a GM dealer to get a good tune up and about how?
If it is a good shop, or a dealer it will be in the $400-$500 range maybe more.You pay for what you get. Make sure they use AC Delco spark plugs, not any thing else. It is a GM car put GM plugs in it. Also make sure they use premium Ignition wires and fuel filter, cap and rotor. Make sure they don't use cheap stuff from autozone or advance auto parts.I wonna know if i can take my 1986 oldsmobile ninety-eight to a GM dealer to get a good tune up and about how?
sure you can take it to them. it will cost mabye 150I wonna know if i can take my 1986 oldsmobile ninety-eight to a GM dealer to get a good tune up and about how?
Unless you have too much money in your wallet I would recomend you take your car to a reputable neibourhood garage (get recomendations from friends or your father's friends) A dealer will charge you 2-3 times more.
Go in and get written estimates that show parts and labour separtely before taking your car in. Some mechanics will let you buy your own parts and that can save you money sometimes.
In my area in Ontario I would expect to pay about: $50 for wires. Cap %26amp; Rotor $10-15. Fuel filter $2. Oil %26amp; filter $15-20.
I would guesstimate total labour at $100-$300.
Why not do the Cap and Rotor and wires yourself, it is pretty simple. Just pull off and replace one part at a time. One wire at a time so you don't get them mixed-upI wonna know if i can take my 1986 oldsmobile ninety-eight to a GM dealer to get a good tune up and about how?
sure, they will tune it for you. after all, its a gm product.What color bed sheets would look best flaxseed oil thyroid
If it is a good shop, or a dealer it will be in the $400-$500 range maybe more.You pay for what you get. Make sure they use AC Delco spark plugs, not any thing else. It is a GM car put GM plugs in it. Also make sure they use premium Ignition wires and fuel filter, cap and rotor. Make sure they don't use cheap stuff from autozone or advance auto parts.I wonna know if i can take my 1986 oldsmobile ninety-eight to a GM dealer to get a good tune up and about how?
sure you can take it to them. it will cost mabye 150I wonna know if i can take my 1986 oldsmobile ninety-eight to a GM dealer to get a good tune up and about how?
Unless you have too much money in your wallet I would recomend you take your car to a reputable neibourhood garage (get recomendations from friends or your father's friends) A dealer will charge you 2-3 times more.
Go in and get written estimates that show parts and labour separtely before taking your car in. Some mechanics will let you buy your own parts and that can save you money sometimes.
In my area in Ontario I would expect to pay about: $50 for wires. Cap %26amp; Rotor $10-15. Fuel filter $2. Oil %26amp; filter $15-20.
I would guesstimate total labour at $100-$300.
Why not do the Cap and Rotor and wires yourself, it is pretty simple. Just pull off and replace one part at a time. One wire at a time so you don't get them mixed-upI wonna know if i can take my 1986 oldsmobile ninety-eight to a GM dealer to get a good tune up and about how?
sure, they will tune it for you. after all, its a gm product.
How do you know when a brake rotor is bad? How do you know when they need to be turned?
I've looked everywhere for answers to these questions. I've just changed my brake pads but am unsure how brake rotors are supposed to look or feel. What does turning them do? If a rotor isn't perfectly smooth, what effect does it have on your brakes? Thanks.How do you know when a brake rotor is bad? How do you know when they need to be turned?
get rid of that Toyota van already, Ray!!! do you see many of these on the road? there's a reason why not......How do you know when a brake rotor is bad? How do you know when they need to be turned?
Rotors over time wear thinner in thickness..... for each make/model there is a minimum thickness of the rotor before it is deemed unusable or unsafe..
if the rotor isn;t perfectly smooth it will wear the brake pads abnormally or faster sicne it has to grind itself down to fit the grooves of the rotorHow do you know when a brake rotor is bad? How do you know when they need to be turned?
If the rotor needs turned you will feel a vibration while braking.
They are usually stamped with the minimum thickness that they should be turned to near the wheel stud area.
I personally never turn them, and just buy new ones because the new rotors usually cost only a few more dollars than the cost to turn the old ones.How do you know when a brake rotor is bad? How do you know when they need to be turned?
the rotors should be turned everytime the brakes are replaced so the pads break in evenly and you get full pad upon brakeing, the symptions of a bad or warped rotor is a pulsating feeling in the brake pedal when applying the brakes.How do you know when a brake rotor is bad? How do you know when they need to be turned?
Typically a bad rotor will either be warped (high bumps in random places) or wavy (high and low spots radiating out from the center). You can use a straight edge to see how straight the rotor is in various areas to get an idea if its ok or not. But honestly with the low price of imported rotors at most parts stores, virtually no one turns rotors anymore. My friend who runs his own shop sold off his rotor resurfacer several years ago, you can't charge customers 15 bucks a rotor to turn them when new ones are 25, so you don't waste your time you just sell them the new rotor and make your money marking those up and installing them.How do you know when a brake rotor is bad? How do you know when they need to be turned?
If your steering wheel shakes when you apply the brakes you should have them turned. If you noticed that the rotors looked as if they had grooves worn around them, you should have them turned. If you had hot spots or discoloration, it wouldn't hurt to have them turned. If you've had them turned more than once or twice and a lot of material was removed then you should consider having them replaced. The guy turning them should be able to put a set of mics on them and tell you if they are getting too thin to turn again.How do you know when a brake rotor is bad? How do you know when they need to be turned?
i own a shop and you can look at them and see if the have grooves cut in them or odd markings on them that shouldn't be there,they should look smooth,you can also tell this by if they wobble when you put your foot on the brake pedal also,if you feel it go up and down a lot this means their warped,most of the time you can just remove the wheel and rotate the rotor a little and see if it wobbles or has deep grooves in it,if you see any of this you either need to get these turned or get new ones for it,good luck with it,i hope this helps.How do you know when a brake rotor is bad? How do you know when they need to be turned?
a brake rotor has a musurement on each car,most of the time marked on the inside of the rotor.if you put pads on its a good idea to have thrm turned.reason is there can be high and low spots on the surface and this can cause the brakes to shakeor make the car jerk when applied.most rotors get damaged by the driving habits of the driver,if you drive fast and hit your brakes to make a quik stop,that causes the rotors to get the high spots in them.also riding the brake will cause this.if you drive regular and not alot of stopping involved,you wont have to cut the rotors too much.just enought to get the layer off the surface of the rotor from build up.How do you know when a brake rotor is bad? How do you know when they need to be turned?
a good brake shop will take a micrometer that measures thickness and measure each rotor,then compare results to the measurements that is stamped on each rotor/hub if within limits they usually turn them and that provides a smooth surface for the brake pads -----with a un-even surface or a ridged surfaced that will cause the pads to be ridged or not wear evenlyHow do you know when a brake rotor is bad? How do you know when they need to be turned?
the rotors make a squeeking noise and when you stop you kind of have a buzzing sound and it will harm your brakes life and its better that you change them as soon as possibly because the brake life will go out and it will get ruinedHow do you know when a brake rotor is bad? How do you know when they need to be turned?
Your rotors can be spot checked with this trick. If you can not write a smooth line across the surface of the rotor with a regular ball-point pen; it needs to be turned if it has enough thickness to be machined. What I mean is to try to write your signature in several places on the %26quot;cleaned%26quot; rotor, without any blank spots or skipping, if you can; the rotors are smooth enough for good pad contact.
This only works on solid faced rotors; this is Yahoo Answers after all.How do you know when a brake rotor is bad? How do you know when they need to be turned?
the rotors should be turned every time you replace the brake pads. they should be as smooth as a babys butt on the surface that they touch the brake pads. rotors can only be turned down to a safe minimum thickness which is measured in hundredths of an inch. take them to your local parts store to have them measured and possibly turned. if you dont have them turned, the uneven ness (sp) and grooves take away from the total surface area that your brake pads touch them and your brakes will overheat. the excessive friction on the smaller surface area creates intense heat. the pads and the rotors should mate up together nice and smooth. if you dont turn them and the heat builds up the rotors will warp, or become out of round laterally causing a pulsating feeling in the brake pedal.How do you know when a brake rotor is bad? How do you know when they need to be turned?
when your rotors are bad,you will get a pulsation in your brakes,and when you get the rotors turned,you should get even braking action,without pulsations.
get rid of that Toyota van already, Ray!!! do you see many of these on the road? there's a reason why not......How do you know when a brake rotor is bad? How do you know when they need to be turned?
Rotors over time wear thinner in thickness..... for each make/model there is a minimum thickness of the rotor before it is deemed unusable or unsafe..
if the rotor isn;t perfectly smooth it will wear the brake pads abnormally or faster sicne it has to grind itself down to fit the grooves of the rotorHow do you know when a brake rotor is bad? How do you know when they need to be turned?
If the rotor needs turned you will feel a vibration while braking.
They are usually stamped with the minimum thickness that they should be turned to near the wheel stud area.
I personally never turn them, and just buy new ones because the new rotors usually cost only a few more dollars than the cost to turn the old ones.How do you know when a brake rotor is bad? How do you know when they need to be turned?
the rotors should be turned everytime the brakes are replaced so the pads break in evenly and you get full pad upon brakeing, the symptions of a bad or warped rotor is a pulsating feeling in the brake pedal when applying the brakes.How do you know when a brake rotor is bad? How do you know when they need to be turned?
Typically a bad rotor will either be warped (high bumps in random places) or wavy (high and low spots radiating out from the center). You can use a straight edge to see how straight the rotor is in various areas to get an idea if its ok or not. But honestly with the low price of imported rotors at most parts stores, virtually no one turns rotors anymore. My friend who runs his own shop sold off his rotor resurfacer several years ago, you can't charge customers 15 bucks a rotor to turn them when new ones are 25, so you don't waste your time you just sell them the new rotor and make your money marking those up and installing them.How do you know when a brake rotor is bad? How do you know when they need to be turned?
If your steering wheel shakes when you apply the brakes you should have them turned. If you noticed that the rotors looked as if they had grooves worn around them, you should have them turned. If you had hot spots or discoloration, it wouldn't hurt to have them turned. If you've had them turned more than once or twice and a lot of material was removed then you should consider having them replaced. The guy turning them should be able to put a set of mics on them and tell you if they are getting too thin to turn again.How do you know when a brake rotor is bad? How do you know when they need to be turned?
i own a shop and you can look at them and see if the have grooves cut in them or odd markings on them that shouldn't be there,they should look smooth,you can also tell this by if they wobble when you put your foot on the brake pedal also,if you feel it go up and down a lot this means their warped,most of the time you can just remove the wheel and rotate the rotor a little and see if it wobbles or has deep grooves in it,if you see any of this you either need to get these turned or get new ones for it,good luck with it,i hope this helps.How do you know when a brake rotor is bad? How do you know when they need to be turned?
a brake rotor has a musurement on each car,most of the time marked on the inside of the rotor.if you put pads on its a good idea to have thrm turned.reason is there can be high and low spots on the surface and this can cause the brakes to shakeor make the car jerk when applied.most rotors get damaged by the driving habits of the driver,if you drive fast and hit your brakes to make a quik stop,that causes the rotors to get the high spots in them.also riding the brake will cause this.if you drive regular and not alot of stopping involved,you wont have to cut the rotors too much.just enought to get the layer off the surface of the rotor from build up.How do you know when a brake rotor is bad? How do you know when they need to be turned?
a good brake shop will take a micrometer that measures thickness and measure each rotor,then compare results to the measurements that is stamped on each rotor/hub if within limits they usually turn them and that provides a smooth surface for the brake pads -----with a un-even surface or a ridged surfaced that will cause the pads to be ridged or not wear evenlyHow do you know when a brake rotor is bad? How do you know when they need to be turned?
the rotors make a squeeking noise and when you stop you kind of have a buzzing sound and it will harm your brakes life and its better that you change them as soon as possibly because the brake life will go out and it will get ruinedHow do you know when a brake rotor is bad? How do you know when they need to be turned?
Your rotors can be spot checked with this trick. If you can not write a smooth line across the surface of the rotor with a regular ball-point pen; it needs to be turned if it has enough thickness to be machined. What I mean is to try to write your signature in several places on the %26quot;cleaned%26quot; rotor, without any blank spots or skipping, if you can; the rotors are smooth enough for good pad contact.
This only works on solid faced rotors; this is Yahoo Answers after all.How do you know when a brake rotor is bad? How do you know when they need to be turned?
the rotors should be turned every time you replace the brake pads. they should be as smooth as a babys butt on the surface that they touch the brake pads. rotors can only be turned down to a safe minimum thickness which is measured in hundredths of an inch. take them to your local parts store to have them measured and possibly turned. if you dont have them turned, the uneven ness (sp) and grooves take away from the total surface area that your brake pads touch them and your brakes will overheat. the excessive friction on the smaller surface area creates intense heat. the pads and the rotors should mate up together nice and smooth. if you dont turn them and the heat builds up the rotors will warp, or become out of round laterally causing a pulsating feeling in the brake pedal.How do you know when a brake rotor is bad? How do you know when they need to be turned?
when your rotors are bad,you will get a pulsation in your brakes,and when you get the rotors turned,you should get even braking action,without pulsations.
How do I turn off my traction control on my 88 IROC-Z 5.7 Liter 350?
One more question.
I am buying new brakes for my front end on my IROC. I am probably buying the friction performance brakes that are made of CM or carbon metallic. Do I need to change my front rotors as well or can I keep the ones I have now with the new brakes?How do I turn off my traction control on my 88 IROC-Z 5.7 Liter 350?
Your understanding of what is happening is very, very backwards. Spinning of tires is a direct loss of traction. Traction control is there to stop traction loss and keep the tires from spinning. An 88 Camaro has no form of traction control. What you may be talking about is a limited slip differential, which distributes available power evenly. Fixing your problem is a matter of upgrading parts, tire, or driver.
Always have the rotors resurface or replaced when replacing pads.How do I turn off my traction control on my 88 IROC-Z 5.7 Liter 350?
ummm.. Its a 1988 camaro.. It don't have traction control. So to to turn it on or off you will need to sell the car and buy one a few years newer lol
Your stock rotors will work with those pads, just be sure to turn rotors if any grooves are in them. Also be sure to clean rotors good with brake parts cleaner before putting your calipers back on.
I race a 1988 camaro as well. I use auto zone's duralast brake pads due to the life time replacement. I run through 1-2 pairs a year. Just pull em off and take them back to an auto zone sorry to get them replaced for free
Now as far as traction %26quot;control%26quot; goes.. Mine comes in the form of
jegster adjustable torque arm
Spohn adjustable LCAs
Spohn LCA brackets
Spohn adjustable panhard rod
KYB AGX adjustable rear shocks
Moog iroc rear springs
Air lift drag bags in rear springs
Worn out front struts
Stock v-6 front springs
Nitto 555R 275/60-15 drag radials on rear
Detroit locker in rear (ford 9%26quot;)
Spohn SFC
S%26amp;W 10 point roll cage
That gets me 1.60's 60' times pulling the front wheels about 4%26quot; off the track
My 0-60 mph times are avg of 3.2 seconds but have pulled a few 2.9's
I am buying new brakes for my front end on my IROC. I am probably buying the friction performance brakes that are made of CM or carbon metallic. Do I need to change my front rotors as well or can I keep the ones I have now with the new brakes?How do I turn off my traction control on my 88 IROC-Z 5.7 Liter 350?
Your understanding of what is happening is very, very backwards. Spinning of tires is a direct loss of traction. Traction control is there to stop traction loss and keep the tires from spinning. An 88 Camaro has no form of traction control. What you may be talking about is a limited slip differential, which distributes available power evenly. Fixing your problem is a matter of upgrading parts, tire, or driver.
Always have the rotors resurface or replaced when replacing pads.How do I turn off my traction control on my 88 IROC-Z 5.7 Liter 350?
ummm.. Its a 1988 camaro.. It don't have traction control. So to to turn it on or off you will need to sell the car and buy one a few years newer lol
Your stock rotors will work with those pads, just be sure to turn rotors if any grooves are in them. Also be sure to clean rotors good with brake parts cleaner before putting your calipers back on.
I race a 1988 camaro as well. I use auto zone's duralast brake pads due to the life time replacement. I run through 1-2 pairs a year. Just pull em off and take them back to an auto zone sorry to get them replaced for free
Now as far as traction %26quot;control%26quot; goes.. Mine comes in the form of
jegster adjustable torque arm
Spohn adjustable LCAs
Spohn LCA brackets
Spohn adjustable panhard rod
KYB AGX adjustable rear shocks
Moog iroc rear springs
Air lift drag bags in rear springs
Worn out front struts
Stock v-6 front springs
Nitto 555R 275/60-15 drag radials on rear
Detroit locker in rear (ford 9%26quot;)
Spohn SFC
S%26amp;W 10 point roll cage
That gets me 1.60's 60' times pulling the front wheels about 4%26quot; off the track
My 0-60 mph times are avg of 3.2 seconds but have pulled a few 2.9's
Whats wrong w my 1995 chevy astro?
addendum to last question,I couldn't figure out how to add to it again,.I changed plugs,cap,rotor, noticed gas coming out of valve on one of the fuel lines after I was done,while I was tuning it up,i pushed on valve w a screwdriver to see if I had pressure,not much it seemed.I don't have a fuel pressure tester,I didn't even know what the valve was,I THINK,it's pressure relief valve,there's a proper name for it somewhere,and yes,I do use a lot of punctuation.Should a little gas come out of this valve?Maybe as it re-pressurizes?To answer my own question about whats wrong w van:it's 15 yrs old and has over 250,000 miles on it,but I'm broke and jobless,might as well fix what I can,huh?Whats wrong w my 1995 chevy astro?
The valve that your talking about sounds like the fuel pressure test port.After you crank over your motor a few times it should have a good bit of fuel spray come out of it when press in on the center of the valve.If you don't have a fuel pressure tester to be sure that it's got enough pressure, you could either find somebody that does or just replace the fuel pump.Maybe with a used one from a junk yard.Whats wrong w my 1995 chevy astro?
ur pressure relief valve should not b leaking fuel......but anyway to pressurize it u simply turn the key to run...fuel pump should kick on and pressurize the system...
btw u can usually rent a fuel pressure tester in most parts store's loan-a-tool programs...
and u left out plug wires if u didn't change those it needs to b done....and btw old trick i used is i always wrap plug wires with electric tap at least 2 layers thick b4 i install them.......makes the cheapies work almost as good as the high dollar ones.....makes them last longer too.....
even do it with accel 300+ race wires on race cars...
The valve that your talking about sounds like the fuel pressure test port.After you crank over your motor a few times it should have a good bit of fuel spray come out of it when press in on the center of the valve.If you don't have a fuel pressure tester to be sure that it's got enough pressure, you could either find somebody that does or just replace the fuel pump.Maybe with a used one from a junk yard.Whats wrong w my 1995 chevy astro?
ur pressure relief valve should not b leaking fuel......but anyway to pressurize it u simply turn the key to run...fuel pump should kick on and pressurize the system...
btw u can usually rent a fuel pressure tester in most parts store's loan-a-tool programs...
and u left out plug wires if u didn't change those it needs to b done....and btw old trick i used is i always wrap plug wires with electric tap at least 2 layers thick b4 i install them.......makes the cheapies work almost as good as the high dollar ones.....makes them last longer too.....
even do it with accel 300+ race wires on race cars...
How come my car is not getting any spark? Any help please?
so lets start with what exactly happened.
So my mom was driving her 2000 honda civic and all of a sudden based on her account %26quot;i was just driving normally. then the engine just got cut off and when i tried turning it on it just cranks and cranks but never turns on.%26quot;
So I went to the car, and i turned the key, and all I hear is the cranking noise like its trying to start, but it never does.
I did a timing test and its showing that I have no sparks at all in all of the 4 cylinders.
I changed the cap, rotor, spark plugs, and spark plug wires. I didnt buy the dizzy because it was the most expensive unit, and now Kragen is closed. Do you guys think it might be the distributor? if not, then what else? thanks.
How come my car is not getting any spark? Any help please?
do you have 12 v to the coil, with the ignition on?How come my car is not getting any spark? Any help please?
ignition coil replaceHow come my car is not getting any spark? Any help please?
well dude go check all of ta fuses tat transfer electricity to ta car it is usually located on ta bottom of ta steering near ta corner maybe one of then is burned off and needs replacements so check all of them
So my mom was driving her 2000 honda civic and all of a sudden based on her account %26quot;i was just driving normally. then the engine just got cut off and when i tried turning it on it just cranks and cranks but never turns on.%26quot;
So I went to the car, and i turned the key, and all I hear is the cranking noise like its trying to start, but it never does.
I did a timing test and its showing that I have no sparks at all in all of the 4 cylinders.
I changed the cap, rotor, spark plugs, and spark plug wires. I didnt buy the dizzy because it was the most expensive unit, and now Kragen is closed. Do you guys think it might be the distributor? if not, then what else? thanks.
How come my car is not getting any spark? Any help please?
do you have 12 v to the coil, with the ignition on?How come my car is not getting any spark? Any help please?
ignition coil replaceHow come my car is not getting any spark? Any help please?
well dude go check all of ta fuses tat transfer electricity to ta car it is usually located on ta bottom of ta steering near ta corner maybe one of then is burned off and needs replacements so check all of them
Fuel questions for 91 civic 1.5 liter?
My civic is getting worse. I know enough about engines to be dangerous. When the problem started I suspected an old ignition system so I changed everything.. cap, rotor, wires and plugs. No changes.
What it does is if you drive at a constant speed it stutters and loses power.
My next thought is it might be injectors. This car has a throttle body with two injectors. What I have to do to drive without sputtering down the road is accelerate very fast to the speed I want, then coast until I lose 5 or 10 mph, then give it the gas real hard until i get back up to speed and then coast again.
It kind of seems like one of the injectors might not be doing it's job due to the fact that when I give it a lot of gas and it needs to use both injectors its fine, but when I smooth out and try to hold a constant speed and only the primary injector is needed it sputters. (My logic of how the injectors work and when in this throttle body may be very wrong.. I said I knew enough to be dangerous)
If anyone has any (helpful) opinions on what might be wrong or what else I should check before shelling out money for new parts that may or may not fix the problem I would really appreciate it.
Oh.. almost forgot.. When the car is cold and I start it it skips and sputters very badly until it warms up. It idles very nice after its warm.. doesn't overheat..accelerates fine until you get into higher rpm's (4500 or so) then it skips and sputters unless you put your foot on the floor.
I know there are some honda ppl out there who know exactly what is wrong. Show me how much you know about Honda's and save me some time and money and possibly a long walk in the snow when it finally does take a diveFuel questions for 91 civic 1.5 liter?
I had the same problem on my civic. Although i never got it fixed i was suspicious of the (tps) throttle positioning sensor. I would have it at cruise speed maintaining it and it would sputter. then i would punch it and it would react.
I went through hell. i chipped the ecu, i changed like two sets of cables, rotor cap. i even took out the distributor and it was all good. i changed fuel pump, fuel filters.. you name it i changed. it.
The best thing you can do to pin point the problem is to take it in to a shop where they can run a diagnostic check up on it. that way you wont end up spending so much money like i did!
Good luck and if you ever find out what it was email me, im curious!Fuel questions for 91 civic 1.5 liter?
Change your fuel filter and replace the service screw with a fuel pressure gauge when you re-install it. A fuel filter is $12 and a fuel pressure gauge is around the same but will easily tell you whether you have adequate fuel pressure. You should have between 30-40 PSI of fuel pressure when you initially prime the fuel pump.
This will eliminate a clogged fuel filter and tell you whether or not your fuel pump is going bad.
As far as the idle goes, you should check/clean the idle air control valve and test the fast idle thermo valve per the service manual directions.Fuel questions for 91 civic 1.5 liter?
I would try unplugging the map sensor and see if it makes any difference at all. if that does not work try replacing the whole intake manifold you can find dpfi manifolds on ebay, junkyards, or parts cars for under 50 they dont go for much there not in demandbenefits from computer viruses reptiles
What it does is if you drive at a constant speed it stutters and loses power.
My next thought is it might be injectors. This car has a throttle body with two injectors. What I have to do to drive without sputtering down the road is accelerate very fast to the speed I want, then coast until I lose 5 or 10 mph, then give it the gas real hard until i get back up to speed and then coast again.
It kind of seems like one of the injectors might not be doing it's job due to the fact that when I give it a lot of gas and it needs to use both injectors its fine, but when I smooth out and try to hold a constant speed and only the primary injector is needed it sputters. (My logic of how the injectors work and when in this throttle body may be very wrong.. I said I knew enough to be dangerous)
If anyone has any (helpful) opinions on what might be wrong or what else I should check before shelling out money for new parts that may or may not fix the problem I would really appreciate it.
Oh.. almost forgot.. When the car is cold and I start it it skips and sputters very badly until it warms up. It idles very nice after its warm.. doesn't overheat..accelerates fine until you get into higher rpm's (4500 or so) then it skips and sputters unless you put your foot on the floor.
I know there are some honda ppl out there who know exactly what is wrong. Show me how much you know about Honda's and save me some time and money and possibly a long walk in the snow when it finally does take a diveFuel questions for 91 civic 1.5 liter?
I had the same problem on my civic. Although i never got it fixed i was suspicious of the (tps) throttle positioning sensor. I would have it at cruise speed maintaining it and it would sputter. then i would punch it and it would react.
I went through hell. i chipped the ecu, i changed like two sets of cables, rotor cap. i even took out the distributor and it was all good. i changed fuel pump, fuel filters.. you name it i changed. it.
The best thing you can do to pin point the problem is to take it in to a shop where they can run a diagnostic check up on it. that way you wont end up spending so much money like i did!
Good luck and if you ever find out what it was email me, im curious!Fuel questions for 91 civic 1.5 liter?
Change your fuel filter and replace the service screw with a fuel pressure gauge when you re-install it. A fuel filter is $12 and a fuel pressure gauge is around the same but will easily tell you whether you have adequate fuel pressure. You should have between 30-40 PSI of fuel pressure when you initially prime the fuel pump.
This will eliminate a clogged fuel filter and tell you whether or not your fuel pump is going bad.
As far as the idle goes, you should check/clean the idle air control valve and test the fast idle thermo valve per the service manual directions.Fuel questions for 91 civic 1.5 liter?
I would try unplugging the map sensor and see if it makes any difference at all. if that does not work try replacing the whole intake manifold you can find dpfi manifolds on ebay, junkyards, or parts cars for under 50 they dont go for much there not in demand
Transmission gears worn/messed up or is it the CV?
2000 Ford Contour SE front wheel drive. 4 cylinder (save the jokes, i know its not the best)... How do you know or what symptoms do you have when the gears in the transmission that work with the CV half shaft are worn out or messed up? I have this problem...
when I accelerate to go on the freeway or when I'm coming to a stop the left side starts to vibrate, I can hear %26amp; feel something grinding...
I have changed the tires, rotors,brake pads, motor mounts, transmission mounts, and it still does that. I'm about to change the CV half shaft on the left side, I have been to about 6-7 different shops and none could figure it out, they just gave me a guess and one said wait for it to get worst....I have been trying to figure out this problem since 2007.....Transmission gears worn/messed up or is it the CV?
a cv joint will make a clicking sound the loudest moving with the wheels turned all the way
when I accelerate to go on the freeway or when I'm coming to a stop the left side starts to vibrate, I can hear %26amp; feel something grinding...
I have changed the tires, rotors,brake pads, motor mounts, transmission mounts, and it still does that. I'm about to change the CV half shaft on the left side, I have been to about 6-7 different shops and none could figure it out, they just gave me a guess and one said wait for it to get worst....I have been trying to figure out this problem since 2007.....Transmission gears worn/messed up or is it the CV?
a cv joint will make a clicking sound the loudest moving with the wheels turned all the way
I need Car Tuner help?
I have a 2008 ford fusion and i plan on changing a number of things on the car, first i will start with H%26amp;R coilovers, then change my brake rotors along with the brake pads. Then i will be installing a rear and front sway bars and also a new 3d Carbon body kit, and i will be installing a front wind splitter from ADR design. Last but not least a SCT cailbrator and new air intake, along with a new set of Vossen wheels 20 inches, my question and problem....possibly, are the wheels, they weight 30 pounds and im worried they are gona to offset the work im doing to the car. The current 16 inch wheels on my car weight in at 22 pounds, finally my question is does anyone know if the wheels are really going to bring down my performance? If so how bad? by the way i have a i4 engine, 2.3 L. I dont wana spend money on forged wheels, but any ideas are greatly appreciated. Thanks AllI need Car Tuner help?
Someone has been watching too many Fast and Furious movies.
All the mods that you are choosing to do are not going to make the car any faster. It is all for looks. Let me break it down for you.
The coilovers, rotors and sway bars will make the car handle better, but it will not make it any faster.
The windsplitter will not do anything to help you unless you are going over 120mph, which I bet is the top speed of that car anyway. So that thing is useless.
The cold air intake and SCT Tune might....MIGHT.... give you 15-20 horsepower. Maybe.
The carbon fiber body kit is not going to do anything but piss you off. Aftermarket body kits never fit the car properly and break very easily.
Now to the rims. Good luck getting 20 inch rims to fit on the car with coilovers. 20s are the biggest wheels that will fit on that car. However, if you put coil overs on then you will certainly end up lowering the car. If you do that, then you will not be able to fit the 20s on there unless you set the ride height of the car back to stock thus defeating the purpose of all the suspension mods that you did.
Will the wheels hurt your performance...yes. The added weight will slow the car down....slightly. You won't be able to feel it. It will be the equivalent to losing about 3 horsepower. Those big wheels will also make the car handle worse and will offset all the suspension modifications you did. I would not go with anything bigger than an 18 inch rim.I need Car Tuner help?
All that on a fusion?
Someone has been watching too many Fast and Furious movies.
All the mods that you are choosing to do are not going to make the car any faster. It is all for looks. Let me break it down for you.
The coilovers, rotors and sway bars will make the car handle better, but it will not make it any faster.
The windsplitter will not do anything to help you unless you are going over 120mph, which I bet is the top speed of that car anyway. So that thing is useless.
The cold air intake and SCT Tune might....MIGHT.... give you 15-20 horsepower. Maybe.
The carbon fiber body kit is not going to do anything but piss you off. Aftermarket body kits never fit the car properly and break very easily.
Now to the rims. Good luck getting 20 inch rims to fit on the car with coilovers. 20s are the biggest wheels that will fit on that car. However, if you put coil overs on then you will certainly end up lowering the car. If you do that, then you will not be able to fit the 20s on there unless you set the ride height of the car back to stock thus defeating the purpose of all the suspension mods that you did.
Will the wheels hurt your performance...yes. The added weight will slow the car down....slightly. You won't be able to feel it. It will be the equivalent to losing about 3 horsepower. Those big wheels will also make the car handle worse and will offset all the suspension modifications you did. I would not go with anything bigger than an 18 inch rim.I need Car Tuner help?
All that on a fusion?
Fuel questions for 91 civic 1.5 liter?
My civic is getting worse. I know enough about engines to be dangerous. When the problem started I suspected an old ignition system so I changed everything.. cap, rotor, wires and plugs. No changes.
What it does is if you drive at a constant speed it stutters and loses power.
My next thought is it might be injectors. This car has a throttle body with two injectors. What I have to do to drive without sputtering down the road is accelerate very fast to the speed I want, then coast until I lose 5 or 10 mph, then give it the gas real hard until i get back up to speed and then coast again.
It kind of seems like one of the injectors might not be doing it's job due to the fact that when I give it a lot of gas and it needs to use both injectors its fine, but when I smooth out and try to hold a constant speed and only the primary injector is needed it sputters. (My logic of how the injectors work and when in this throttle body may be very wrong.. I said I knew enough to be dangerous)
If anyone has any (helpful) opinions on what might be wrong or what else I should check before shelling out money for new parts that may or may not fix the problem I would really appreciate it.
Oh.. almost forgot.. When the car is cold and I start it it skips and sputters very badly until it warms up. It idles very nice after its warm.. doesn't overheat..accelerates fine until you get into higher rpm's (4500 or so) then it skips and sputters unless you put your foot on the floor.
I know there are some honda ppl out there who know exactly what is wrong. Show me how much you know about Honda's and save me some time and money and possibly a long walk in the snow when it finally does take a diveFuel questions for 91 civic 1.5 liter?
Apart from anything else, those cars were known for defective %26quot;ignitors%26quot; which is called an ignition module on many other cars. Many cars of that vintage probably had a new distributor installed by now which may be the best way to get a new ignitor. Then you'll know it's not an ignition problem. The distributors also failed due to bad bearings. Never crank your engine with any spark plug wires disconnected or the cap removed. You can blow out the ignitor and coil.Fuel questions for 91 civic 1.5 liter?
Remove all four plugs and inspect for signs of a lean setting or a rich setting in regards to fuel flow.
What it does is if you drive at a constant speed it stutters and loses power.
My next thought is it might be injectors. This car has a throttle body with two injectors. What I have to do to drive without sputtering down the road is accelerate very fast to the speed I want, then coast until I lose 5 or 10 mph, then give it the gas real hard until i get back up to speed and then coast again.
It kind of seems like one of the injectors might not be doing it's job due to the fact that when I give it a lot of gas and it needs to use both injectors its fine, but when I smooth out and try to hold a constant speed and only the primary injector is needed it sputters. (My logic of how the injectors work and when in this throttle body may be very wrong.. I said I knew enough to be dangerous)
If anyone has any (helpful) opinions on what might be wrong or what else I should check before shelling out money for new parts that may or may not fix the problem I would really appreciate it.
Oh.. almost forgot.. When the car is cold and I start it it skips and sputters very badly until it warms up. It idles very nice after its warm.. doesn't overheat..accelerates fine until you get into higher rpm's (4500 or so) then it skips and sputters unless you put your foot on the floor.
I know there are some honda ppl out there who know exactly what is wrong. Show me how much you know about Honda's and save me some time and money and possibly a long walk in the snow when it finally does take a diveFuel questions for 91 civic 1.5 liter?
Apart from anything else, those cars were known for defective %26quot;ignitors%26quot; which is called an ignition module on many other cars. Many cars of that vintage probably had a new distributor installed by now which may be the best way to get a new ignitor. Then you'll know it's not an ignition problem. The distributors also failed due to bad bearings. Never crank your engine with any spark plug wires disconnected or the cap removed. You can blow out the ignitor and coil.Fuel questions for 91 civic 1.5 liter?
Remove all four plugs and inspect for signs of a lean setting or a rich setting in regards to fuel flow.
94 Toyota Celica Steering Wheel Vibration...?
Specs: 1994 Toyota Celica
5 Speed Transmission
1.8 Liter
160,000 Miles
Just changed the brakes, rotors and pads, in which the rotor was causing the car to grab and making it go crazy. That problem was fixed but now at higher speeds only, the steering wheel has a terrible vibration.
The vibration is so bad that I can't even hold the wheel with my hand at times because how badly its vibrating....
I did a SUPER quick glance under the vehicle and didn't see anything noticeable but like I said, It was very quick as I didn't have much time.
Anything anyone might be able to offer to really check thoroughly that would cause this to occur would be super helpful.
REMEMBER:
Steering wheel vibrates at higher speeds and when accelerating into higher speeds ONLY.
I was leaning towards a mount of some sort but Im just not sure.
Thanks in advance for the help!!!!
94 Toyota Celica Steering Wheel Vibration...?
Place the car on jack stands and remove the front wheels. Snug up the lug nuts back against the rotors. Start the car and put the transmission in low gear. Check to see if either brake rotor is wobbling side to side. If it is remove both rotors and put a small round flat wire brush in the end of an electric drill and super clean off the hub where the wheel studs stick out. If there is any rust or crap on the hubs the rotors will not lay flat. Wipe on a little never seize on the hub faces before putting the rotors back in place. Check to see if the side to side run-out has improved. If not take the offending rotor back. Mount the wheels and tires and let them spin slowly also. Look at them closely for buldges or a bent wheel. Speed up the rpm to see if there is a vibration. You may have tossed a wheel weight.94 Toyota Celica Steering Wheel Vibration...?
could be one of three things. bad front tires. out of balance tires or bad cv shafts. my camry does the same thing due to worn cv shaft. 94 Toyota Celica Steering Wheel Vibration...?
check and see if the wheels are not out of balance make sure everything is tight with the brakes94 Toyota Celica Steering Wheel Vibration...?
it either sounds like your wheel alignment is just terrible or your drive shaft is going to shiv, it might possibly be an your front axle or even control arm but from the sounds of it, i think its either the drive shaft or wheel alignment, the only question is..do you have to turn the steering wheel more than a quarter turn when driving jut to keep it straight cuz then thats your wheel alignment, and if not it might be your drive shaft going bad.94 Toyota Celica Steering Wheel Vibration...?
Sounds like it could be your alignment, especially after having your rotors and brakes changed. Simple fix, it'd be a good thing to check out.94 Toyota Celica Steering Wheel Vibration...?
First,I would check the power steering fluid.Look and see if one of the sway bar links has broken.it looks like a dumbbell,:a nut then a washer,a rubber bushing,the bolt goes thru the sway arm,then another bushing,then a washer,then a sleeve,then another washer and another bushing,then it goes through the lower swing arm with another bushing and washer underneath,and the bolt head......94 Toyota Celica Steering Wheel Vibration...?
Excellent question lots of good details and information.
Differing brands front to rear will not cause vibration
Start by having the wheels balanced and the tires checked for any visual tread mis-shapen conditions, if that does not correct the problem, spin up one side at a time with the vehicle on the hoist, I suspect you might have gotten an improperly machined rotor which could cause the vibration if this is the case the mechanic will not have any trouble figuring out which one it is using this test. While the car is up also check for worn ball joints and tie rod ends which will amplify vibrations and are safety hazards all by themselves.
If neither of these tests bear fruit, the next things to check are the drive shaft CV joints, they should be checked with the weight of the car on the wheels, and the transmission in neutral, to ensure they are in their normal alignment, which will be where the wear is. If the vibration is noticeably torque sensitive (changes with the throttle setting) head straight for the CV joints.
Once the vibration has been eliminated and any other loose components replaced have a front end alignment performed to get everything back in correct position and ensure proper handling and good tire wear.
5 Speed Transmission
1.8 Liter
160,000 Miles
Just changed the brakes, rotors and pads, in which the rotor was causing the car to grab and making it go crazy. That problem was fixed but now at higher speeds only, the steering wheel has a terrible vibration.
The vibration is so bad that I can't even hold the wheel with my hand at times because how badly its vibrating....
I did a SUPER quick glance under the vehicle and didn't see anything noticeable but like I said, It was very quick as I didn't have much time.
Anything anyone might be able to offer to really check thoroughly that would cause this to occur would be super helpful.
REMEMBER:
Steering wheel vibrates at higher speeds and when accelerating into higher speeds ONLY.
I was leaning towards a mount of some sort but Im just not sure.
Thanks in advance for the help!!!!
94 Toyota Celica Steering Wheel Vibration...?
Place the car on jack stands and remove the front wheels. Snug up the lug nuts back against the rotors. Start the car and put the transmission in low gear. Check to see if either brake rotor is wobbling side to side. If it is remove both rotors and put a small round flat wire brush in the end of an electric drill and super clean off the hub where the wheel studs stick out. If there is any rust or crap on the hubs the rotors will not lay flat. Wipe on a little never seize on the hub faces before putting the rotors back in place. Check to see if the side to side run-out has improved. If not take the offending rotor back. Mount the wheels and tires and let them spin slowly also. Look at them closely for buldges or a bent wheel. Speed up the rpm to see if there is a vibration. You may have tossed a wheel weight.94 Toyota Celica Steering Wheel Vibration...?
could be one of three things. bad front tires. out of balance tires or bad cv shafts. my camry does the same thing due to worn cv shaft. 94 Toyota Celica Steering Wheel Vibration...?
check and see if the wheels are not out of balance make sure everything is tight with the brakes94 Toyota Celica Steering Wheel Vibration...?
it either sounds like your wheel alignment is just terrible or your drive shaft is going to shiv, it might possibly be an your front axle or even control arm but from the sounds of it, i think its either the drive shaft or wheel alignment, the only question is..do you have to turn the steering wheel more than a quarter turn when driving jut to keep it straight cuz then thats your wheel alignment, and if not it might be your drive shaft going bad.94 Toyota Celica Steering Wheel Vibration...?
Sounds like it could be your alignment, especially after having your rotors and brakes changed. Simple fix, it'd be a good thing to check out.94 Toyota Celica Steering Wheel Vibration...?
First,I would check the power steering fluid.Look and see if one of the sway bar links has broken.it looks like a dumbbell,:a nut then a washer,a rubber bushing,the bolt goes thru the sway arm,then another bushing,then a washer,then a sleeve,then another washer and another bushing,then it goes through the lower swing arm with another bushing and washer underneath,and the bolt head......94 Toyota Celica Steering Wheel Vibration...?
Excellent question lots of good details and information.
Differing brands front to rear will not cause vibration
Start by having the wheels balanced and the tires checked for any visual tread mis-shapen conditions, if that does not correct the problem, spin up one side at a time with the vehicle on the hoist, I suspect you might have gotten an improperly machined rotor which could cause the vibration if this is the case the mechanic will not have any trouble figuring out which one it is using this test. While the car is up also check for worn ball joints and tie rod ends which will amplify vibrations and are safety hazards all by themselves.
If neither of these tests bear fruit, the next things to check are the drive shaft CV joints, they should be checked with the weight of the car on the wheels, and the transmission in neutral, to ensure they are in their normal alignment, which will be where the wear is. If the vibration is noticeably torque sensitive (changes with the throttle setting) head straight for the CV joints.
Once the vibration has been eliminated and any other loose components replaced have a front end alignment performed to get everything back in correct position and ensure proper handling and good tire wear.
How do i stop my 97 Honda Accord to stop Idling?
Ok, so my Honda started Idling when I'm on a stop light. I changed spark plugs and wires. Still did it.
Changed cracked ignition coil and still did it. Changed cap and rotor and still did it. I pull the wires/strings for accelator and does it less but still does it from time to time. What can be wrong, I'm getting frustrated. The engine idles from time to time. Like it misfires and struggles to start early in the morning. The Car has 142000 miles..How do i stop my 97 Honda Accord to stop Idling?
Check your fuel pump and fuel pump relay if they are functioning properly. Have this check by a good Honda mechanic. Hope this might help!How do i stop my 97 Honda Accord to stop Idling?
Have you had the codes run on the car, the computer may have tripped a code causing thisHow do i stop my 97 Honda Accord to stop Idling?
Honda made crappy cars that year. Many have had transmission issues and oil pan gasket issues.how to grow pomegranate out of control situations
Changed cracked ignition coil and still did it. Changed cap and rotor and still did it. I pull the wires/strings for accelator and does it less but still does it from time to time. What can be wrong, I'm getting frustrated. The engine idles from time to time. Like it misfires and struggles to start early in the morning. The Car has 142000 miles..How do i stop my 97 Honda Accord to stop Idling?
Check your fuel pump and fuel pump relay if they are functioning properly. Have this check by a good Honda mechanic. Hope this might help!How do i stop my 97 Honda Accord to stop Idling?
Have you had the codes run on the car, the computer may have tripped a code causing thisHow do i stop my 97 Honda Accord to stop Idling?
Honda made crappy cars that year. Many have had transmission issues and oil pan gasket issues.
How hard to change Ford 1992 E350 front brake lines?
I have done the rest of the steel lines at one time or another but now I must change the front. I am ok with the drivers' side but where is the line that runs from the drivers side flexible line over to the passenger side? I cannot seem to see it. I am also ok with bleeding the lines and double flaring but the line location has me stumped. The line change is because the steel line in question split when I bled the left caliper. It was frozen and I changed it along with the rotor and pads. The right side is ok but I put the new pads on anyway like you are supposed to do. They also call for the spindle nut to be set at 75 ft/pounds, then backed off 1/2 turn, then retorqued to 17 to 25 inch pounds. Is all that really critical? When I removes the old rotor it seemed to have some lateral freeplay (1/16th ?). At this time I do not have a torque wrench that small. The inner and outer bearings are new. I did it the book way before but I do not want to buy a dial torque wrench($250). THANKS!How hard to change Ford 1992 E350 front brake lines?
First, you don't need a dial torque wrench for inch pounds. You can buy an inexpensive click wrench. Of course they're not as accurate as the expensive ones. But they're a heckofa lot better than guessing. And yes, bearing torque IS critical.
The brake line does NOT run from the driver's side to the passenger side. You have a split system. That means the front left and right rear are on the same circuit and the right front and left rear are on the other circuit. That's why you're not finding the passenger side line by looking at the driver's side.
First, you don't need a dial torque wrench for inch pounds. You can buy an inexpensive click wrench. Of course they're not as accurate as the expensive ones. But they're a heckofa lot better than guessing. And yes, bearing torque IS critical.
The brake line does NOT run from the driver's side to the passenger side. You have a split system. That means the front left and right rear are on the same circuit and the right front and left rear are on the other circuit. That's why you're not finding the passenger side line by looking at the driver's side.
My 2001 525i blower motor will not shut off when the car is turned off. It is draining the battery.?
My 2001 525i blower motor will not shut off when the car is turned off. It is draining the battery.?
My 2001 525i blower motor will not shut off when the car is turned off.
I don't know how long this has been occurring, but it drains the
battery. In addition, there are 2 fuses 75 and 76 I can't locate. The
later is a 40 amp fuse for the heater blower. The fuse is obviously not
blown since the blower continually operates. Still I would like to know
where these 2 fuses are located as I could pull the blower fuse
instead of disconnecting the negative battery cable to save the battery every
time I park it in the garage. There are 2 banks of fuses in the glove
box. 75 and 76 are listed on the card in the glove box yet they are
not located in the glove box. There is another bank of fuses along with
several relays above the battery behind the sub-woofer in the right
rear quarter panel. I thought the blower problem maybe a relay that is
not operating properly, but with the car off and the blower going I
disconnected each relay to break the curcuit without success of
stopping the blower. Perhaps there is a different relay located
somewhere else in the car, or it is not a relay problem. Unfortunately, the
fuse list located in the back panel for the rear fuse bank where the
relays are located does not list each relay and their purpose.
Another problem I've had with this car is the front rotors. They are
made out of soft metal to facilitate better performance while
stopping. They seem to warp easy. First, the brakes along with the rotors
were changed at approx. 25,000 miles. The BMW Dealer told me the car was
designed this way and it is normal. Then I started having trouble with
warped rotors. They have been changed several times but always end up
warped prematurely. Perhaps it is a caliper problem, or a master
cylinder issue.
Does any body out there know where fuses 75 and 76 are located and
any other relays? Second, do you know what may be the problem with the
blower oscillating from slow to fast while the vehicle is shut down?
And finally, is there a solution for the warped rotors besides driving
the car off a cliff?My 2001 525i blower motor will not shut off when the car is turned off. It is draining the battery.?
Your fan has a temeparature sensor..which may be damaged. anyway just look for the cables that come out from the fan..and unplug it.My 2001 525i blower motor will not shut off when the car is turned off. It is draining the battery.?
about the blower motor, maybe the relay is stuck, which would cause it to run all the time, until you find the problem, unhook the battery at night, and about the rotors, it sounds like the calipers arent releasing the pads away from the rotors, and burning the pads and warping the rotors.
My 2001 525i blower motor will not shut off when the car is turned off.
I don't know how long this has been occurring, but it drains the
battery. In addition, there are 2 fuses 75 and 76 I can't locate. The
later is a 40 amp fuse for the heater blower. The fuse is obviously not
blown since the blower continually operates. Still I would like to know
where these 2 fuses are located as I could pull the blower fuse
instead of disconnecting the negative battery cable to save the battery every
time I park it in the garage. There are 2 banks of fuses in the glove
box. 75 and 76 are listed on the card in the glove box yet they are
not located in the glove box. There is another bank of fuses along with
several relays above the battery behind the sub-woofer in the right
rear quarter panel. I thought the blower problem maybe a relay that is
not operating properly, but with the car off and the blower going I
disconnected each relay to break the curcuit without success of
stopping the blower. Perhaps there is a different relay located
somewhere else in the car, or it is not a relay problem. Unfortunately, the
fuse list located in the back panel for the rear fuse bank where the
relays are located does not list each relay and their purpose.
Another problem I've had with this car is the front rotors. They are
made out of soft metal to facilitate better performance while
stopping. They seem to warp easy. First, the brakes along with the rotors
were changed at approx. 25,000 miles. The BMW Dealer told me the car was
designed this way and it is normal. Then I started having trouble with
warped rotors. They have been changed several times but always end up
warped prematurely. Perhaps it is a caliper problem, or a master
cylinder issue.
Does any body out there know where fuses 75 and 76 are located and
any other relays? Second, do you know what may be the problem with the
blower oscillating from slow to fast while the vehicle is shut down?
And finally, is there a solution for the warped rotors besides driving
the car off a cliff?My 2001 525i blower motor will not shut off when the car is turned off. It is draining the battery.?
Your fan has a temeparature sensor..which may be damaged. anyway just look for the cables that come out from the fan..and unplug it.My 2001 525i blower motor will not shut off when the car is turned off. It is draining the battery.?
about the blower motor, maybe the relay is stuck, which would cause it to run all the time, until you find the problem, unhook the battery at night, and about the rotors, it sounds like the calipers arent releasing the pads away from the rotors, and burning the pads and warping the rotors.
My 2001 525i blower motor will not shut off when the car is turned off. It is draining the battery.?
My 2001 525i blower motor will not shut off when the car is turned off.
I don't know how long this has been occurring, but it drains the
battery. In addition, there are 2 fuses 75 and 76 I can't locate. The
later is a 40 amp fuse for the heater blower. The fuse is obviously not
blown since the blower continually operates. Still I would like to know
where these 2 fuses are located as I could pull the blower fuse
instead of disconnecting the negative battery cable to save the battery every
time I park it in the garage. There are 2 banks of fuses in the glove
box. 75 and 76 are listed on the card in the glove box yet they are
not located in the glove box. There is another bank of fuses along with
several relays above the battery behind the sub-woofer in the right
rear quarter panel. I thought the blower problem maybe a relay that is
not operating properly, but with the car off and the blower going I
disconnected each relay to break the curcuit without success of
stopping the blower. Perhaps there is a different relay located
somewhere else in the car, or it is not a relay problem. Unfortunately, the
fuse list located in the back panel for the rear fuse bank where the
relays are located does not list each relay and their purpose.
Another problem I've had with this car is the front rotors. They are
made out of soft metal to facilitate better performance while
stopping. They seem to warp easy. First, the brakes along with the rotors
were changed at approx. 25,000 miles. The BMW Dealer told me the car was
designed this way and it is normal. Then I started having trouble with
warped rotors. They have been changed several times but always end up
warped prematurely. Perhaps it is a caliper problem, or a master
cylinder issue.
Does any body out there know where fuses 75 and 76 are located and
any other relays? Second, do you know what may be the problem with the
blower oscillating from slow to fast while the vehicle is shut down?
And finally, is there a solution for the warped rotors besides driving
the car off a cliff?My 2001 525i blower motor will not shut off when the car is turned off. It is draining the battery.?
Im not familiar with BMW's but with climate controlled vehicles,i do know that the blower is controlled by a blower control module and the blower gets its ground thru the module.
If the blower continues to run with the key off,the problem lies internally in the blower module and it needs to be replaced.
look into that and see if your vehicle has that setup
As far as the rotors,cheaper aftermarket ones will do that.
ALSO%26gt;%26gt;%26gt;if the lug nuts are improperly/overtorqued when put back on,this will definitely warp rotors within 5-7 thousand miles or less.
A torque wrench or special torque sticks are required to tighten them properly.
If just an impact wrench is used ,they can be easily overtorqued.
I don't know how long this has been occurring, but it drains the
battery. In addition, there are 2 fuses 75 and 76 I can't locate. The
later is a 40 amp fuse for the heater blower. The fuse is obviously not
blown since the blower continually operates. Still I would like to know
where these 2 fuses are located as I could pull the blower fuse
instead of disconnecting the negative battery cable to save the battery every
time I park it in the garage. There are 2 banks of fuses in the glove
box. 75 and 76 are listed on the card in the glove box yet they are
not located in the glove box. There is another bank of fuses along with
several relays above the battery behind the sub-woofer in the right
rear quarter panel. I thought the blower problem maybe a relay that is
not operating properly, but with the car off and the blower going I
disconnected each relay to break the curcuit without success of
stopping the blower. Perhaps there is a different relay located
somewhere else in the car, or it is not a relay problem. Unfortunately, the
fuse list located in the back panel for the rear fuse bank where the
relays are located does not list each relay and their purpose.
Another problem I've had with this car is the front rotors. They are
made out of soft metal to facilitate better performance while
stopping. They seem to warp easy. First, the brakes along with the rotors
were changed at approx. 25,000 miles. The BMW Dealer told me the car was
designed this way and it is normal. Then I started having trouble with
warped rotors. They have been changed several times but always end up
warped prematurely. Perhaps it is a caliper problem, or a master
cylinder issue.
Does any body out there know where fuses 75 and 76 are located and
any other relays? Second, do you know what may be the problem with the
blower oscillating from slow to fast while the vehicle is shut down?
And finally, is there a solution for the warped rotors besides driving
the car off a cliff?My 2001 525i blower motor will not shut off when the car is turned off. It is draining the battery.?
Im not familiar with BMW's but with climate controlled vehicles,i do know that the blower is controlled by a blower control module and the blower gets its ground thru the module.
If the blower continues to run with the key off,the problem lies internally in the blower module and it needs to be replaced.
look into that and see if your vehicle has that setup
As far as the rotors,cheaper aftermarket ones will do that.
ALSO%26gt;%26gt;%26gt;if the lug nuts are improperly/overtorqued when put back on,this will definitely warp rotors within 5-7 thousand miles or less.
A torque wrench or special torque sticks are required to tighten them properly.
If just an impact wrench is used ,they can be easily overtorqued.
Changing the brakes and rotors on a volvo s40?
Iv got an 05 volvo s40 that i need to change the brakes and rotors on the rear. How hard is it to change them? Would be great if youve had experience doing it with this model or another volvoChanging the brakes and rotors on a volvo s40?
the caliper pistons screw in [turn clockwise to retract] due to the combination design of caliper and park brake.
while the special tool makes it nice [snap on has only just released the new adaptor [it took 3 months to get mine] the cube shaped universal tool [available at most parts stores] can be made to fit with a bench grinder.
don't forget to remove some brake fluid [use a brand new turkey baster, then dispose of old fluid and baster properly] from the reservoir, [this will prevent a fluid on paint spill] and when done, top up with DOT-4 brake fluid only [i prefer castrol lma]
the caliper pistons screw in [turn clockwise to retract] due to the combination design of caliper and park brake.
while the special tool makes it nice [snap on has only just released the new adaptor [it took 3 months to get mine] the cube shaped universal tool [available at most parts stores] can be made to fit with a bench grinder.
don't forget to remove some brake fluid [use a brand new turkey baster, then dispose of old fluid and baster properly] from the reservoir, [this will prevent a fluid on paint spill] and when done, top up with DOT-4 brake fluid only [i prefer castrol lma]
How much should i pay to replace my rack and pinion on my 2000 prelude?
Heres the deal, i'm getting my rack and pinion replaced on my 2000 prelude, also getting a tune up,new front rotors and brakes, oil change, and wheel aligment and balance, the shop is charging me $1000. Is this a good price or to hight.How much should i pay to replace my rack and pinion on my 2000 prelude?
o wow for a 1000 i would say your getting a smoking deal cuz i work at shop and just the rack and pinion job itself costs around 800 to do so yea good deal on that oneHow much should i pay to replace my rack and pinion on my 2000 prelude?
absoluteprelude.comHow much should i pay to replace my rack and pinion on my 2000 prelude?
O.K.. Yes its my friends cousing shop....so it's a good deal..coolwhen youre sign from a job desktop issue
o wow for a 1000 i would say your getting a smoking deal cuz i work at shop and just the rack and pinion job itself costs around 800 to do so yea good deal on that oneHow much should i pay to replace my rack and pinion on my 2000 prelude?
absoluteprelude.comHow much should i pay to replace my rack and pinion on my 2000 prelude?
O.K.. Yes its my friends cousing shop....so it's a good deal..cool
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