Thursday, September 22, 2011

Can I replace my brakes/rotors myself?

I have a 1999 Honda Accord and it needs new brakes and possibly rotors. I know brakes are easy to do but how about the rotors? Are any special tools needed to change or turn the rotors? I dont have a big shop or anything but do have the tools to do most repairs. Just wondering if this is a job to take somewhere or do it yourself. Thanks!Can I replace my brakes/rotors myself?
Its cheaper to get a new rotor ($20) than to have a shop lathe it for you. With the wheel and caliper off. To remove the rotor all you need to do is remove two screws in the middle of the rotor. It takes a fatheaded Phillips screwdriver.



I would rate it a 3 out of 10 on the difficulty scale.Can I replace my brakes/rotors myself?
Disc brakes are probably on of the easiest things for a do it yourselfer. If you've never done it before either buy a repair manual or have someone with experience help you. If the rotors need to be turned you can't do them yourself unless you have a brake lathe. Most auto parts stores like Autozone, O'Reilys, Carquest, NAPA, etc can turn them for you. It's pretty easy.Can I replace my brakes/rotors myself?
You can change your own brakes and rotors! For the rotors you have to have a rotor tool. It is a three pronged tool to pull the rotors off.Can I replace my brakes/rotors myself?
ya listen to them they know what there talking about, but ya take it to a repair man it will get done in no time and its not real exspensive if you already have the part. hope this helps.Can I replace my brakes/rotors myself?
Actually it is EXPENSIVE they will charge you about $50 just for changing the pads and that you can do in 30 minutes. so unless you make like 50 dollars an hour. DO IT YOURSELF IS NOT SO DIFFICULTCan I replace my brakes/rotors myself?
What I do is easy. Take the car and put jack stands under both sides and remove both tires. Now working on one side at a time remove the cal. and the rotor. OK, now put it back together in reverse. If you forgot how, to use the other side to reminder you. You should still have a repair book with you. Good wrenchingCan I replace my brakes/rotors myself?
It's is esy to change brakes and rotors DIY. To remove the old rotors you need to remove brake caliper brackets first. Once the brackets come off, the rotors should be easy to remove. There are screws that hold the rotors down, use lots of WD40 on them and use appropriate screw driver to take them out. If the rotors are hard to come off, use the screw(one you take out from rotors) to drive them out(there should be screw hole/s on the rotors). If you already have tools to do most repairs then you don't have to worry about special tools, but a torque wrench would help to tighten nuts and bolts to manufacturer's specifications.Can I replace my brakes/rotors myself?
When you pull the wheel off and there are bolts through the hub,you cannot ,without replacing the bearings,replace the rotors.They are pressed together.

I wish all the Wannabes would find another category to B/S in.

Brake Rotors?

How often do brake rotors usually need to be changed? I got a 1996 bmw sedan and i changed the brake rotors maybe 8,000-10,000 miles ago and know the brakes are starting to make some noices again so I was hoping its just the pads not the rotors also.Brake Rotors?
The rotors won't typically make the noise by themselves.



The pads will wear a lot faster than most rotors. When you have a brake job done, they typically will replace the pads and measure the rotors to see if they are still within specifications. If they are, and can be machined, they will machine the rotors. Which basically makes the rotors smooth again to give the brakes a good surface to press against.



If you let the brake pads either %26quot;bite%26quot; into the rotors by going metal to metal or even some squeal plates make a gouge in the rotors they won't be able to machine them and you'll need to get them replaced.



If you are just starting to hear noise, go get the brakes inspected before they %26quot;bite%26quot; into the rotors too deeply.Brake Rotors?
Extremely helpful but wrong. Brake rotors can absolutely cause noise and on German cars the rotors wear at the same rate as the pads. That is how they are engineered. I've replaced thousands of german brakes, I know.

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Brake Rotors?
if it squeaks every 2 seconds its the padsBrake Rotors?
Its a BMW. As is typical of European design the pads and rotors are engineered to wear out at the same time.Brake Rotors?
Rotors are ok I would have the pads inspected see how much life is left to them if you need brake pads then they will resurface the rotors. If you have drum brakes in the rear have them or you perform a clean and adjust this will help extend the life of the front pads cause they wont have to work as hard. If you have disc brakes in the rear do the same as the front. Also all rotors have a measurement to them and where you get your work done should be taking measurements of your rotors before performing any work. I hope this info is helpful.Brake Rotors?
If you do not have a pulsating feel when you apply the brakes, it isn't the rotors.



Did you change the pads yourself?

Did you use brake grease on the caliper pins when you reinstalled them? This is an overlooked item. Not greasing those pins will cause the caliper to not float freely, the brakes will bind up and make your brakes squeal.

Do you drive hard?

You may have overheated the brake pads and heat-cracked them.

The only way to check them is to take them off again and inspect the pads for heat stress cracks.Brake Rotors?
If you replaced them 10,000 miles ago they will not need to be changed.

Have the pad's changed and the rotors might have to be turned, which is where they put the rotors on a lathe and cut a clean straight surface on them. This can typically be done twice before they have to be replaced.

If when you put the brakes on the car shudders slightly this is an indication that they need turned. If there is any kind of audible noise it's most likely just the pads.Brake Rotors?
forget the other answers. The squealing is caused by %26quot;squealers%26quot;, they are attached to the brake pads and come into contact with the rotors when your brake pads become worn. Unless your steering wheel vibrates when you brake and the rotors are within a certain thickness, they should be fine.Have the pads changed by a Reputable shop, and if possible watch them do it as alot of places will rip you off.Brake Rotors?
Ever since Asbestos was outlawed for use in brake pads the industry has had to make more agressive friction material. These agressive brake pads grind the rotors at an advanced rate but 10,000 miles is too fast even for the new pads. You may need to change rotors everytime you redo the front brakes but they should last for 30,000 miles. Probably something else is making the noise but check the linings first just because it is the easiest thing to do. Then look to see if anything is gouging the rotor, and what it is. Check the wheel bearings too. If the caliper has frozen on one side it will have used up the other pad quickly. Do your home work. You will find it.Brake Rotors?
Get a micro meter and measure. Most BMW automotive books can tell you the acceptable thickness of the rotor. Generally, BMW rotors will last up 80K - 120K miles.



BMW cars have computer controlled pads wear sensors. They are located in Front Left wheel, and Rear Right wheel. So if it is a pads wear problem, your %26quot;brake lining%26quot; light would come on, telling you to replace the pads.

What do i need to do for 100k serviceing in a 00 740i?

How do i reset my check engine light?Also i am changing all my break pads,rotor also sensors,is that going to reset my check break light too?What do i need to do for 100k serviceing in a 00 740i?
Change oil and oil filter while engine is at normal operating temperature.

Reset service interval indicator.

Replace microfilters.

Check overall thickness of front and rear disc brake pads using special tool. If replacement is necessary: Examine brake disc surfaces. Clean brake pad contact points in calipers. Grease wheel centering hubs. Check thickness of parking brake linings only when replacing rear pads.

Remove and install front and rear disc brake pads, check overall thickness. Examine brake disc surfaces. Clean brake pad contact points in calipers. Grease wheel centering hubs.

Check parking brake actuation. Adjust if necessary.

Check rear axle for leaks.

Half-shafts: Check for leaks at flexible boots.

Visually check fuel tank, lines and connections for leaks.

Check condition, position, and mounting of exhaust system. Examine for leaks.

Check power steering system for leaks. Check power steering fluid level; add fluid if necessary.

Check steering for absence of play, condition of suspension track rods, front axle joints, steering linkage and joint disc.

Check overall thickness of front and rear disc brake pads using special tool. If replacement is necessary: Examine brake disk surfaces. Clean brake pad contact points in calipers. Grease wheel centering hubs. Check thickness of parking brake linings only when replacing rear brake pads.

Remove and install front and rear disc brake pads, check overall thickness. Examine brake disc surfaces. Clean brake pad contact points in calipers. Grease wheel centering hubs.

Check front control arm bushings for wear.

Check brake system connections and lines for leaks, damage and incorrect positioning.

Check parking brake actuator. Adjust if necessary.

Check all tire pressures (including spare). Correct if necessary. Check condition of tires (outer surface [left/right]), tread wear and pattern; in case of uneven tread wear, readjust wheel alignment if requested (invoice separately).

Inspect entire body according to terms of rust performation limited warranty (must be performed at least every two years).

Read out diagnostic system.

Check engine cooling system/heater hose connections for leaks. Check coolant level and antifreeze protection level.

Add coolant if required.

Check level of brake/clutch fluid in reservoir. Add fluid if required.

Check windshield washer fluid level and antifreeze protection. Fill up and/or correct if required.

Check air conditioner for operation.

Replace microfilters. (Note: reduce replacement interval in dusty operating conditions.)

Reset service interval indicator.

Check battery state-of-charge and charge if required.

Check lighting system, i.e.: headlights, foglights, parking, back-up, license plate, interior (including map reading lights), glove box, flashlight, illuminated makeup mirrors, luggage compartment/area lights.

Check instrument panel and dashboard illumination.

Check all warning/indicator lights, check control.

Check turn signals, hazard warning flashers, brake lights, horns, headlight dimmer and flasher switch.

Check wipers and washer system(s); wiper blades, washer jet positions.

Check condition and function of safety belts.

Visually examine all SRS airbag units for torn covers, obvious damage or attachment of decals, decorations or accessories.

Check central locking/double lock.

Replace batteries for alarm remote controls in all master keys.

Check operation of all latches.

Check heater/air conditioner blower, rear window defogger.

Check rear view mirrors.

Replace air cleaner element. (Note: Reduce replacement interval in dusty operating conditions).

Replace IHKA recirculated air filters.



Time / Mileage Based service as follows:



Replace brake fluid every 2 years (time interval begins from the vehicle檚 production date - Look inside driver's door to find production date label).

Replace coolant every 4 years (time interval begins from the vehicle檚 production date).

Replace Oxygen Sensor every 100,000 miles.

Replace spark plugs every 100,000 miles.What do i need to do for 100k serviceing in a 00 740i?
If you dont have the owners manual you can always call your local dealer to find out ,

How do i check for error codes on a 1992 mitsubishi diamante??

I cannot get this car to run.. I have changed the spark plugs, rotor cap, spark plug wires, fuel pump, fuel sending unit, and it still will not start.. %26lt;PLEASE HELP%26gt;How do i check for error codes on a 1992 mitsubishi diamante??
Put in a reman brain. Your capacitors have leaked and took out the board.

I wonna know if i can take my 1986 oldsmobile ninety-eight to a GM dealer to get a good tune up and about how?

much would it cost basically i wonna change the plugs plug wires,rotor cap and rotor fuel filter and oil change and . also look at all the hoses and the fan belt.I wonna know if i can take my 1986 oldsmobile ninety-eight to a GM dealer to get a good tune up and about how?
If it is a good shop, or a dealer it will be in the $400-$500 range maybe more.You pay for what you get. Make sure they use AC Delco spark plugs, not any thing else. It is a GM car put GM plugs in it. Also make sure they use premium Ignition wires and fuel filter, cap and rotor. Make sure they don't use cheap stuff from autozone or advance auto parts.I wonna know if i can take my 1986 oldsmobile ninety-eight to a GM dealer to get a good tune up and about how?
sure you can take it to them. it will cost mabye 150I wonna know if i can take my 1986 oldsmobile ninety-eight to a GM dealer to get a good tune up and about how?
Unless you have too much money in your wallet I would recomend you take your car to a reputable neibourhood garage (get recomendations from friends or your father's friends) A dealer will charge you 2-3 times more.

Go in and get written estimates that show parts and labour separtely before taking your car in. Some mechanics will let you buy your own parts and that can save you money sometimes.

In my area in Ontario I would expect to pay about: $50 for wires. Cap %26amp; Rotor $10-15. Fuel filter $2. Oil %26amp; filter $15-20.

I would guesstimate total labour at $100-$300.

Why not do the Cap and Rotor and wires yourself, it is pretty simple. Just pull off and replace one part at a time. One wire at a time so you don't get them mixed-upI wonna know if i can take my 1986 oldsmobile ninety-eight to a GM dealer to get a good tune up and about how?
sure, they will tune it for you. after all, its a gm product.
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  • How do you know when a brake rotor is bad? How do you know when they need to be turned?

    I've looked everywhere for answers to these questions. I've just changed my brake pads but am unsure how brake rotors are supposed to look or feel. What does turning them do? If a rotor isn't perfectly smooth, what effect does it have on your brakes? Thanks.How do you know when a brake rotor is bad? How do you know when they need to be turned?
    get rid of that Toyota van already, Ray!!! do you see many of these on the road? there's a reason why not......How do you know when a brake rotor is bad? How do you know when they need to be turned?
    Rotors over time wear thinner in thickness..... for each make/model there is a minimum thickness of the rotor before it is deemed unusable or unsafe..



    if the rotor isn;t perfectly smooth it will wear the brake pads abnormally or faster sicne it has to grind itself down to fit the grooves of the rotorHow do you know when a brake rotor is bad? How do you know when they need to be turned?
    If the rotor needs turned you will feel a vibration while braking.

    They are usually stamped with the minimum thickness that they should be turned to near the wheel stud area.

    I personally never turn them, and just buy new ones because the new rotors usually cost only a few more dollars than the cost to turn the old ones.How do you know when a brake rotor is bad? How do you know when they need to be turned?
    the rotors should be turned everytime the brakes are replaced so the pads break in evenly and you get full pad upon brakeing, the symptions of a bad or warped rotor is a pulsating feeling in the brake pedal when applying the brakes.How do you know when a brake rotor is bad? How do you know when they need to be turned?
    Typically a bad rotor will either be warped (high bumps in random places) or wavy (high and low spots radiating out from the center). You can use a straight edge to see how straight the rotor is in various areas to get an idea if its ok or not. But honestly with the low price of imported rotors at most parts stores, virtually no one turns rotors anymore. My friend who runs his own shop sold off his rotor resurfacer several years ago, you can't charge customers 15 bucks a rotor to turn them when new ones are 25, so you don't waste your time you just sell them the new rotor and make your money marking those up and installing them.How do you know when a brake rotor is bad? How do you know when they need to be turned?
    If your steering wheel shakes when you apply the brakes you should have them turned. If you noticed that the rotors looked as if they had grooves worn around them, you should have them turned. If you had hot spots or discoloration, it wouldn't hurt to have them turned. If you've had them turned more than once or twice and a lot of material was removed then you should consider having them replaced. The guy turning them should be able to put a set of mics on them and tell you if they are getting too thin to turn again.How do you know when a brake rotor is bad? How do you know when they need to be turned?
    i own a shop and you can look at them and see if the have grooves cut in them or odd markings on them that shouldn't be there,they should look smooth,you can also tell this by if they wobble when you put your foot on the brake pedal also,if you feel it go up and down a lot this means their warped,most of the time you can just remove the wheel and rotate the rotor a little and see if it wobbles or has deep grooves in it,if you see any of this you either need to get these turned or get new ones for it,good luck with it,i hope this helps.How do you know when a brake rotor is bad? How do you know when they need to be turned?
    a brake rotor has a musurement on each car,most of the time marked on the inside of the rotor.if you put pads on its a good idea to have thrm turned.reason is there can be high and low spots on the surface and this can cause the brakes to shakeor make the car jerk when applied.most rotors get damaged by the driving habits of the driver,if you drive fast and hit your brakes to make a quik stop,that causes the rotors to get the high spots in them.also riding the brake will cause this.if you drive regular and not alot of stopping involved,you wont have to cut the rotors too much.just enought to get the layer off the surface of the rotor from build up.How do you know when a brake rotor is bad? How do you know when they need to be turned?
    a good brake shop will take a micrometer that measures thickness and measure each rotor,then compare results to the measurements that is stamped on each rotor/hub if within limits they usually turn them and that provides a smooth surface for the brake pads -----with a un-even surface or a ridged surfaced that will cause the pads to be ridged or not wear evenlyHow do you know when a brake rotor is bad? How do you know when they need to be turned?
    the rotors make a squeeking noise and when you stop you kind of have a buzzing sound and it will harm your brakes life and its better that you change them as soon as possibly because the brake life will go out and it will get ruinedHow do you know when a brake rotor is bad? How do you know when they need to be turned?
    Your rotors can be spot checked with this trick. If you can not write a smooth line across the surface of the rotor with a regular ball-point pen; it needs to be turned if it has enough thickness to be machined. What I mean is to try to write your signature in several places on the %26quot;cleaned%26quot; rotor, without any blank spots or skipping, if you can; the rotors are smooth enough for good pad contact.



    This only works on solid faced rotors; this is Yahoo Answers after all.How do you know when a brake rotor is bad? How do you know when they need to be turned?
    the rotors should be turned every time you replace the brake pads. they should be as smooth as a babys butt on the surface that they touch the brake pads. rotors can only be turned down to a safe minimum thickness which is measured in hundredths of an inch. take them to your local parts store to have them measured and possibly turned. if you dont have them turned, the uneven ness (sp) and grooves take away from the total surface area that your brake pads touch them and your brakes will overheat. the excessive friction on the smaller surface area creates intense heat. the pads and the rotors should mate up together nice and smooth. if you dont turn them and the heat builds up the rotors will warp, or become out of round laterally causing a pulsating feeling in the brake pedal.How do you know when a brake rotor is bad? How do you know when they need to be turned?
    when your rotors are bad,you will get a pulsation in your brakes,and when you get the rotors turned,you should get even braking action,without pulsations.

    How do I turn off my traction control on my 88 IROC-Z 5.7 Liter 350?

    One more question.



    I am buying new brakes for my front end on my IROC. I am probably buying the friction performance brakes that are made of CM or carbon metallic. Do I need to change my front rotors as well or can I keep the ones I have now with the new brakes?How do I turn off my traction control on my 88 IROC-Z 5.7 Liter 350?
    Your understanding of what is happening is very, very backwards. Spinning of tires is a direct loss of traction. Traction control is there to stop traction loss and keep the tires from spinning. An 88 Camaro has no form of traction control. What you may be talking about is a limited slip differential, which distributes available power evenly. Fixing your problem is a matter of upgrading parts, tire, or driver.



    Always have the rotors resurface or replaced when replacing pads.How do I turn off my traction control on my 88 IROC-Z 5.7 Liter 350?
    ummm.. Its a 1988 camaro.. It don't have traction control. So to to turn it on or off you will need to sell the car and buy one a few years newer lol



    Your stock rotors will work with those pads, just be sure to turn rotors if any grooves are in them. Also be sure to clean rotors good with brake parts cleaner before putting your calipers back on.



    I race a 1988 camaro as well. I use auto zone's duralast brake pads due to the life time replacement. I run through 1-2 pairs a year. Just pull em off and take them back to an auto zone sorry to get them replaced for free



    Now as far as traction %26quot;control%26quot; goes.. Mine comes in the form of

    jegster adjustable torque arm

    Spohn adjustable LCAs

    Spohn LCA brackets

    Spohn adjustable panhard rod

    KYB AGX adjustable rear shocks

    Moog iroc rear springs

    Air lift drag bags in rear springs

    Worn out front struts

    Stock v-6 front springs

    Nitto 555R 275/60-15 drag radials on rear

    Detroit locker in rear (ford 9%26quot;)

    Spohn SFC

    S%26amp;W 10 point roll cage



    That gets me 1.60's 60' times pulling the front wheels about 4%26quot; off the track



    My 0-60 mph times are avg of 3.2 seconds but have pulled a few 2.9's

    Whats wrong w my 1995 chevy astro?

    addendum to last question,I couldn't figure out how to add to it again,.I changed plugs,cap,rotor, noticed gas coming out of valve on one of the fuel lines after I was done,while I was tuning it up,i pushed on valve w a screwdriver to see if I had pressure,not much it seemed.I don't have a fuel pressure tester,I didn't even know what the valve was,I THINK,it's pressure relief valve,there's a proper name for it somewhere,and yes,I do use a lot of punctuation.Should a little gas come out of this valve?Maybe as it re-pressurizes?To answer my own question about whats wrong w van:it's 15 yrs old and has over 250,000 miles on it,but I'm broke and jobless,might as well fix what I can,huh?Whats wrong w my 1995 chevy astro?
    The valve that your talking about sounds like the fuel pressure test port.After you crank over your motor a few times it should have a good bit of fuel spray come out of it when press in on the center of the valve.If you don't have a fuel pressure tester to be sure that it's got enough pressure, you could either find somebody that does or just replace the fuel pump.Maybe with a used one from a junk yard.Whats wrong w my 1995 chevy astro?
    ur pressure relief valve should not b leaking fuel......but anyway to pressurize it u simply turn the key to run...fuel pump should kick on and pressurize the system...



    btw u can usually rent a fuel pressure tester in most parts store's loan-a-tool programs...



    and u left out plug wires if u didn't change those it needs to b done....and btw old trick i used is i always wrap plug wires with electric tap at least 2 layers thick b4 i install them.......makes the cheapies work almost as good as the high dollar ones.....makes them last longer too.....

    even do it with accel 300+ race wires on race cars...

    How come my car is not getting any spark? Any help please?

    so lets start with what exactly happened.



    So my mom was driving her 2000 honda civic and all of a sudden based on her account %26quot;i was just driving normally. then the engine just got cut off and when i tried turning it on it just cranks and cranks but never turns on.%26quot;



    So I went to the car, and i turned the key, and all I hear is the cranking noise like its trying to start, but it never does.



    I did a timing test and its showing that I have no sparks at all in all of the 4 cylinders.



    I changed the cap, rotor, spark plugs, and spark plug wires. I didnt buy the dizzy because it was the most expensive unit, and now Kragen is closed. Do you guys think it might be the distributor? if not, then what else? thanks.

    How come my car is not getting any spark? Any help please?
    do you have 12 v to the coil, with the ignition on?How come my car is not getting any spark? Any help please?
    ignition coil replaceHow come my car is not getting any spark? Any help please?
    well dude go check all of ta fuses tat transfer electricity to ta car it is usually located on ta bottom of ta steering near ta corner maybe one of then is burned off and needs replacements so check all of them

    Fuel questions for 91 civic 1.5 liter?

    My civic is getting worse. I know enough about engines to be dangerous. When the problem started I suspected an old ignition system so I changed everything.. cap, rotor, wires and plugs. No changes.

    What it does is if you drive at a constant speed it stutters and loses power.

    My next thought is it might be injectors. This car has a throttle body with two injectors. What I have to do to drive without sputtering down the road is accelerate very fast to the speed I want, then coast until I lose 5 or 10 mph, then give it the gas real hard until i get back up to speed and then coast again.

    It kind of seems like one of the injectors might not be doing it's job due to the fact that when I give it a lot of gas and it needs to use both injectors its fine, but when I smooth out and try to hold a constant speed and only the primary injector is needed it sputters. (My logic of how the injectors work and when in this throttle body may be very wrong.. I said I knew enough to be dangerous)

    If anyone has any (helpful) opinions on what might be wrong or what else I should check before shelling out money for new parts that may or may not fix the problem I would really appreciate it.

    Oh.. almost forgot.. When the car is cold and I start it it skips and sputters very badly until it warms up. It idles very nice after its warm.. doesn't overheat..accelerates fine until you get into higher rpm's (4500 or so) then it skips and sputters unless you put your foot on the floor.

    I know there are some honda ppl out there who know exactly what is wrong. Show me how much you know about Honda's and save me some time and money and possibly a long walk in the snow when it finally does take a diveFuel questions for 91 civic 1.5 liter?
    I had the same problem on my civic. Although i never got it fixed i was suspicious of the (tps) throttle positioning sensor. I would have it at cruise speed maintaining it and it would sputter. then i would punch it and it would react.



    I went through hell. i chipped the ecu, i changed like two sets of cables, rotor cap. i even took out the distributor and it was all good. i changed fuel pump, fuel filters.. you name it i changed. it.



    The best thing you can do to pin point the problem is to take it in to a shop where they can run a diagnostic check up on it. that way you wont end up spending so much money like i did!



    Good luck and if you ever find out what it was email me, im curious!Fuel questions for 91 civic 1.5 liter?
    Change your fuel filter and replace the service screw with a fuel pressure gauge when you re-install it. A fuel filter is $12 and a fuel pressure gauge is around the same but will easily tell you whether you have adequate fuel pressure. You should have between 30-40 PSI of fuel pressure when you initially prime the fuel pump.



    This will eliminate a clogged fuel filter and tell you whether or not your fuel pump is going bad.





    As far as the idle goes, you should check/clean the idle air control valve and test the fast idle thermo valve per the service manual directions.Fuel questions for 91 civic 1.5 liter?
    I would try unplugging the map sensor and see if it makes any difference at all. if that does not work try replacing the whole intake manifold you can find dpfi manifolds on ebay, junkyards, or parts cars for under 50 they dont go for much there not in demand
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  • Transmission gears worn/messed up or is it the CV?

    2000 Ford Contour SE front wheel drive. 4 cylinder (save the jokes, i know its not the best)... How do you know or what symptoms do you have when the gears in the transmission that work with the CV half shaft are worn out or messed up? I have this problem...



    when I accelerate to go on the freeway or when I'm coming to a stop the left side starts to vibrate, I can hear %26amp; feel something grinding...



    I have changed the tires, rotors,brake pads, motor mounts, transmission mounts, and it still does that. I'm about to change the CV half shaft on the left side, I have been to about 6-7 different shops and none could figure it out, they just gave me a guess and one said wait for it to get worst....I have been trying to figure out this problem since 2007.....Transmission gears worn/messed up or is it the CV?
    a cv joint will make a clicking sound the loudest moving with the wheels turned all the way

    I need Car Tuner help?

    I have a 2008 ford fusion and i plan on changing a number of things on the car, first i will start with H%26amp;R coilovers, then change my brake rotors along with the brake pads. Then i will be installing a rear and front sway bars and also a new 3d Carbon body kit, and i will be installing a front wind splitter from ADR design. Last but not least a SCT cailbrator and new air intake, along with a new set of Vossen wheels 20 inches, my question and problem....possibly, are the wheels, they weight 30 pounds and im worried they are gona to offset the work im doing to the car. The current 16 inch wheels on my car weight in at 22 pounds, finally my question is does anyone know if the wheels are really going to bring down my performance? If so how bad? by the way i have a i4 engine, 2.3 L. I dont wana spend money on forged wheels, but any ideas are greatly appreciated. Thanks AllI need Car Tuner help?
    Someone has been watching too many Fast and Furious movies.



    All the mods that you are choosing to do are not going to make the car any faster. It is all for looks. Let me break it down for you.



    The coilovers, rotors and sway bars will make the car handle better, but it will not make it any faster.



    The windsplitter will not do anything to help you unless you are going over 120mph, which I bet is the top speed of that car anyway. So that thing is useless.



    The cold air intake and SCT Tune might....MIGHT.... give you 15-20 horsepower. Maybe.



    The carbon fiber body kit is not going to do anything but piss you off. Aftermarket body kits never fit the car properly and break very easily.



    Now to the rims. Good luck getting 20 inch rims to fit on the car with coilovers. 20s are the biggest wheels that will fit on that car. However, if you put coil overs on then you will certainly end up lowering the car. If you do that, then you will not be able to fit the 20s on there unless you set the ride height of the car back to stock thus defeating the purpose of all the suspension mods that you did.



    Will the wheels hurt your performance...yes. The added weight will slow the car down....slightly. You won't be able to feel it. It will be the equivalent to losing about 3 horsepower. Those big wheels will also make the car handle worse and will offset all the suspension modifications you did. I would not go with anything bigger than an 18 inch rim.I need Car Tuner help?
    All that on a fusion?

    Fuel questions for 91 civic 1.5 liter?

    My civic is getting worse. I know enough about engines to be dangerous. When the problem started I suspected an old ignition system so I changed everything.. cap, rotor, wires and plugs. No changes.

    What it does is if you drive at a constant speed it stutters and loses power.

    My next thought is it might be injectors. This car has a throttle body with two injectors. What I have to do to drive without sputtering down the road is accelerate very fast to the speed I want, then coast until I lose 5 or 10 mph, then give it the gas real hard until i get back up to speed and then coast again.

    It kind of seems like one of the injectors might not be doing it's job due to the fact that when I give it a lot of gas and it needs to use both injectors its fine, but when I smooth out and try to hold a constant speed and only the primary injector is needed it sputters. (My logic of how the injectors work and when in this throttle body may be very wrong.. I said I knew enough to be dangerous)

    If anyone has any (helpful) opinions on what might be wrong or what else I should check before shelling out money for new parts that may or may not fix the problem I would really appreciate it.

    Oh.. almost forgot.. When the car is cold and I start it it skips and sputters very badly until it warms up. It idles very nice after its warm.. doesn't overheat..accelerates fine until you get into higher rpm's (4500 or so) then it skips and sputters unless you put your foot on the floor.

    I know there are some honda ppl out there who know exactly what is wrong. Show me how much you know about Honda's and save me some time and money and possibly a long walk in the snow when it finally does take a diveFuel questions for 91 civic 1.5 liter?
    Apart from anything else, those cars were known for defective %26quot;ignitors%26quot; which is called an ignition module on many other cars. Many cars of that vintage probably had a new distributor installed by now which may be the best way to get a new ignitor. Then you'll know it's not an ignition problem. The distributors also failed due to bad bearings. Never crank your engine with any spark plug wires disconnected or the cap removed. You can blow out the ignitor and coil.Fuel questions for 91 civic 1.5 liter?
    Remove all four plugs and inspect for signs of a lean setting or a rich setting in regards to fuel flow.

    94 Toyota Celica Steering Wheel Vibration...?

    Specs: 1994 Toyota Celica

    5 Speed Transmission

    1.8 Liter

    160,000 Miles



    Just changed the brakes, rotors and pads, in which the rotor was causing the car to grab and making it go crazy. That problem was fixed but now at higher speeds only, the steering wheel has a terrible vibration.



    The vibration is so bad that I can't even hold the wheel with my hand at times because how badly its vibrating....



    I did a SUPER quick glance under the vehicle and didn't see anything noticeable but like I said, It was very quick as I didn't have much time.



    Anything anyone might be able to offer to really check thoroughly that would cause this to occur would be super helpful.



    REMEMBER:

    Steering wheel vibrates at higher speeds and when accelerating into higher speeds ONLY.



    I was leaning towards a mount of some sort but Im just not sure.



    Thanks in advance for the help!!!!

    94 Toyota Celica Steering Wheel Vibration...?
    Place the car on jack stands and remove the front wheels. Snug up the lug nuts back against the rotors. Start the car and put the transmission in low gear. Check to see if either brake rotor is wobbling side to side. If it is remove both rotors and put a small round flat wire brush in the end of an electric drill and super clean off the hub where the wheel studs stick out. If there is any rust or crap on the hubs the rotors will not lay flat. Wipe on a little never seize on the hub faces before putting the rotors back in place. Check to see if the side to side run-out has improved. If not take the offending rotor back. Mount the wheels and tires and let them spin slowly also. Look at them closely for buldges or a bent wheel. Speed up the rpm to see if there is a vibration. You may have tossed a wheel weight.94 Toyota Celica Steering Wheel Vibration...?
    could be one of three things. bad front tires. out of balance tires or bad cv shafts. my camry does the same thing due to worn cv shaft. 94 Toyota Celica Steering Wheel Vibration...?
    check and see if the wheels are not out of balance make sure everything is tight with the brakes94 Toyota Celica Steering Wheel Vibration...?
    it either sounds like your wheel alignment is just terrible or your drive shaft is going to shiv, it might possibly be an your front axle or even control arm but from the sounds of it, i think its either the drive shaft or wheel alignment, the only question is..do you have to turn the steering wheel more than a quarter turn when driving jut to keep it straight cuz then thats your wheel alignment, and if not it might be your drive shaft going bad.94 Toyota Celica Steering Wheel Vibration...?
    Sounds like it could be your alignment, especially after having your rotors and brakes changed. Simple fix, it'd be a good thing to check out.94 Toyota Celica Steering Wheel Vibration...?
    First,I would check the power steering fluid.Look and see if one of the sway bar links has broken.it looks like a dumbbell,:a nut then a washer,a rubber bushing,the bolt goes thru the sway arm,then another bushing,then a washer,then a sleeve,then another washer and another bushing,then it goes through the lower swing arm with another bushing and washer underneath,and the bolt head......94 Toyota Celica Steering Wheel Vibration...?
    Excellent question lots of good details and information.



    Differing brands front to rear will not cause vibration



    Start by having the wheels balanced and the tires checked for any visual tread mis-shapen conditions, if that does not correct the problem, spin up one side at a time with the vehicle on the hoist, I suspect you might have gotten an improperly machined rotor which could cause the vibration if this is the case the mechanic will not have any trouble figuring out which one it is using this test. While the car is up also check for worn ball joints and tie rod ends which will amplify vibrations and are safety hazards all by themselves.



    If neither of these tests bear fruit, the next things to check are the drive shaft CV joints, they should be checked with the weight of the car on the wheels, and the transmission in neutral, to ensure they are in their normal alignment, which will be where the wear is. If the vibration is noticeably torque sensitive (changes with the throttle setting) head straight for the CV joints.

    Once the vibration has been eliminated and any other loose components replaced have a front end alignment performed to get everything back in correct position and ensure proper handling and good tire wear.

    How do i stop my 97 Honda Accord to stop Idling?

    Ok, so my Honda started Idling when I'm on a stop light. I changed spark plugs and wires. Still did it.



    Changed cracked ignition coil and still did it. Changed cap and rotor and still did it. I pull the wires/strings for accelator and does it less but still does it from time to time. What can be wrong, I'm getting frustrated. The engine idles from time to time. Like it misfires and struggles to start early in the morning. The Car has 142000 miles..How do i stop my 97 Honda Accord to stop Idling?
    Check your fuel pump and fuel pump relay if they are functioning properly. Have this check by a good Honda mechanic. Hope this might help!How do i stop my 97 Honda Accord to stop Idling?
    Have you had the codes run on the car, the computer may have tripped a code causing thisHow do i stop my 97 Honda Accord to stop Idling?
    Honda made crappy cars that year. Many have had transmission issues and oil pan gasket issues.
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  • How hard to change Ford 1992 E350 front brake lines?

    I have done the rest of the steel lines at one time or another but now I must change the front. I am ok with the drivers' side but where is the line that runs from the drivers side flexible line over to the passenger side? I cannot seem to see it. I am also ok with bleeding the lines and double flaring but the line location has me stumped. The line change is because the steel line in question split when I bled the left caliper. It was frozen and I changed it along with the rotor and pads. The right side is ok but I put the new pads on anyway like you are supposed to do. They also call for the spindle nut to be set at 75 ft/pounds, then backed off 1/2 turn, then retorqued to 17 to 25 inch pounds. Is all that really critical? When I removes the old rotor it seemed to have some lateral freeplay (1/16th ?). At this time I do not have a torque wrench that small. The inner and outer bearings are new. I did it the book way before but I do not want to buy a dial torque wrench($250). THANKS!How hard to change Ford 1992 E350 front brake lines?
    First, you don't need a dial torque wrench for inch pounds. You can buy an inexpensive click wrench. Of course they're not as accurate as the expensive ones. But they're a heckofa lot better than guessing. And yes, bearing torque IS critical.



    The brake line does NOT run from the driver's side to the passenger side. You have a split system. That means the front left and right rear are on the same circuit and the right front and left rear are on the other circuit. That's why you're not finding the passenger side line by looking at the driver's side.

    My 2001 525i blower motor will not shut off when the car is turned off. It is draining the battery.?

    My 2001 525i blower motor will not shut off when the car is turned off. It is draining the battery.?

    My 2001 525i blower motor will not shut off when the car is turned off.

    I don't know how long this has been occurring, but it drains the

    battery. In addition, there are 2 fuses 75 and 76 I can't locate. The

    later is a 40 amp fuse for the heater blower. The fuse is obviously not

    blown since the blower continually operates. Still I would like to know

    where these 2 fuses are located as I could pull the blower fuse

    instead of disconnecting the negative battery cable to save the battery every

    time I park it in the garage. There are 2 banks of fuses in the glove

    box. 75 and 76 are listed on the card in the glove box yet they are

    not located in the glove box. There is another bank of fuses along with

    several relays above the battery behind the sub-woofer in the right

    rear quarter panel. I thought the blower problem maybe a relay that is

    not operating properly, but with the car off and the blower going I

    disconnected each relay to break the curcuit without success of

    stopping the blower. Perhaps there is a different relay located

    somewhere else in the car, or it is not a relay problem. Unfortunately, the

    fuse list located in the back panel for the rear fuse bank where the

    relays are located does not list each relay and their purpose.



    Another problem I've had with this car is the front rotors. They are

    made out of soft metal to facilitate better performance while

    stopping. They seem to warp easy. First, the brakes along with the rotors

    were changed at approx. 25,000 miles. The BMW Dealer told me the car was

    designed this way and it is normal. Then I started having trouble with

    warped rotors. They have been changed several times but always end up

    warped prematurely. Perhaps it is a caliper problem, or a master

    cylinder issue.



    Does any body out there know where fuses 75 and 76 are located and

    any other relays? Second, do you know what may be the problem with the

    blower oscillating from slow to fast while the vehicle is shut down?

    And finally, is there a solution for the warped rotors besides driving

    the car off a cliff?My 2001 525i blower motor will not shut off when the car is turned off. It is draining the battery.?
    Your fan has a temeparature sensor..which may be damaged. anyway just look for the cables that come out from the fan..and unplug it.My 2001 525i blower motor will not shut off when the car is turned off. It is draining the battery.?
    about the blower motor, maybe the relay is stuck, which would cause it to run all the time, until you find the problem, unhook the battery at night, and about the rotors, it sounds like the calipers arent releasing the pads away from the rotors, and burning the pads and warping the rotors.

    My 2001 525i blower motor will not shut off when the car is turned off. It is draining the battery.?

    My 2001 525i blower motor will not shut off when the car is turned off.

    I don't know how long this has been occurring, but it drains the

    battery. In addition, there are 2 fuses 75 and 76 I can't locate. The

    later is a 40 amp fuse for the heater blower. The fuse is obviously not

    blown since the blower continually operates. Still I would like to know

    where these 2 fuses are located as I could pull the blower fuse

    instead of disconnecting the negative battery cable to save the battery every

    time I park it in the garage. There are 2 banks of fuses in the glove

    box. 75 and 76 are listed on the card in the glove box yet they are

    not located in the glove box. There is another bank of fuses along with

    several relays above the battery behind the sub-woofer in the right

    rear quarter panel. I thought the blower problem maybe a relay that is

    not operating properly, but with the car off and the blower going I

    disconnected each relay to break the curcuit without success of

    stopping the blower. Perhaps there is a different relay located

    somewhere else in the car, or it is not a relay problem. Unfortunately, the

    fuse list located in the back panel for the rear fuse bank where the

    relays are located does not list each relay and their purpose.



    Another problem I've had with this car is the front rotors. They are

    made out of soft metal to facilitate better performance while

    stopping. They seem to warp easy. First, the brakes along with the rotors

    were changed at approx. 25,000 miles. The BMW Dealer told me the car was

    designed this way and it is normal. Then I started having trouble with

    warped rotors. They have been changed several times but always end up

    warped prematurely. Perhaps it is a caliper problem, or a master

    cylinder issue.



    Does any body out there know where fuses 75 and 76 are located and

    any other relays? Second, do you know what may be the problem with the

    blower oscillating from slow to fast while the vehicle is shut down?

    And finally, is there a solution for the warped rotors besides driving

    the car off a cliff?My 2001 525i blower motor will not shut off when the car is turned off. It is draining the battery.?
    Im not familiar with BMW's but with climate controlled vehicles,i do know that the blower is controlled by a blower control module and the blower gets its ground thru the module.

    If the blower continues to run with the key off,the problem lies internally in the blower module and it needs to be replaced.

    look into that and see if your vehicle has that setup



    As far as the rotors,cheaper aftermarket ones will do that.

    ALSO%26gt;%26gt;%26gt;if the lug nuts are improperly/overtorqued when put back on,this will definitely warp rotors within 5-7 thousand miles or less.

    A torque wrench or special torque sticks are required to tighten them properly.

    If just an impact wrench is used ,they can be easily overtorqued.

    Changing the brakes and rotors on a volvo s40?

    Iv got an 05 volvo s40 that i need to change the brakes and rotors on the rear. How hard is it to change them? Would be great if youve had experience doing it with this model or another volvoChanging the brakes and rotors on a volvo s40?
    the caliper pistons screw in [turn clockwise to retract] due to the combination design of caliper and park brake.

    while the special tool makes it nice [snap on has only just released the new adaptor [it took 3 months to get mine] the cube shaped universal tool [available at most parts stores] can be made to fit with a bench grinder.

    don't forget to remove some brake fluid [use a brand new turkey baster, then dispose of old fluid and baster properly] from the reservoir, [this will prevent a fluid on paint spill] and when done, top up with DOT-4 brake fluid only [i prefer castrol lma]

    How much should i pay to replace my rack and pinion on my 2000 prelude?

    Heres the deal, i'm getting my rack and pinion replaced on my 2000 prelude, also getting a tune up,new front rotors and brakes, oil change, and wheel aligment and balance, the shop is charging me $1000. Is this a good price or to hight.How much should i pay to replace my rack and pinion on my 2000 prelude?
    o wow for a 1000 i would say your getting a smoking deal cuz i work at shop and just the rack and pinion job itself costs around 800 to do so yea good deal on that oneHow much should i pay to replace my rack and pinion on my 2000 prelude?
    absoluteprelude.comHow much should i pay to replace my rack and pinion on my 2000 prelude?
    O.K.. Yes its my friends cousing shop....so it's a good deal..cool
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  • Mercury cougar problems?

    I'm thinking about buying a 2002 mercury cougar as a first car. I took it to my mechanic he said for it to run at 100 it would need a tune up, oil change, and new rotors. How much would all this cost around, and with these probs is the car still worth it?? Also it has slight damage to a mirror how much is a replacement?? All and any answers would help... also upgrades?Mercury cougar problems?
    You're only looking at around 3 - 4 hundred bucks. Change the oil yourself --- it's an easy job. You did the right thing by taking it to a mechanic before buying. A replacement mirror (used) can be bought at a wrecking yard, but you may have to look around a bit, as these Cougars were not big sellers in 2002. Ask your mechanic if he has access to a %26quot;Merc / Ford Parts Interchange Manual%26quot; as the mirror you are looking for was probably installed on other Fords and Mercury models as well.Mercury cougar problems?
    dont buy it you will regret it,



    they are very problematic cars,



    3 major recalls were done on these year model of the cougar



    http://www.automotive.com/2002/12/mercur



    even though i had all mine replaced it still acts up,



    after i had my brakes fixed a week later my brakes completely locked up

    i was driving when this happened, and almost hit a jeep,



    they fixed my fuel system and it still acts up as well,

    it will bog down, and its even stalled out while driving, then will start up just fine.



    i also have problems with my ECU resetting when the car is turned off

    the check engine light will come on at random times for no reason

    and my mass air flow sensor went out the car only has 66,000 miles on it!!!Mercury cougar problems?
    seriously its a great buy and i wouldnt take it to a mechanic to fix those small things cause u will pay about about 150 to do it all yourself and 3-4 hundred for a mechanic because its mostly labor.

    i have a 99 cougar and did it myself simple.Mercury cougar problems?
    Tune up, oil change, and new rotors aren't problems they are routine maintainance.



    If that's all the mechanic found then the car is in good shape and worth it.Mercury cougar problems?
    Mercury Cougars are cars for the mechanically inclined for sure. You will have (if they don't have it already) electrical problems in the front dash system meters and gauges. The fuel system was faulty and they recalled the fuel filter 3 times in 6 years, they recalled the fuel pump for 99-2004, and have a bad fuel intake system that will cause the gravitational fuel flow system (the standard gas station fuel pump) to stop fueling since it believes the car is full already even though its not. You will also have problems with the tires, they are rare and very specific measurements that make it hard and costly to locate, unless you live near a dealership then it may be difficult to find the tires. The car also has a VERY picky and specific radiator/overflow system that is very easy to overfill, if you overfill it, the overflow system will discard more than the excess and you will end up with your radiator light on, this will take several attempts to get the perfect balance to keep the radiator from spilling the antifreeze onto the ground. With all these problems, you are looking at nickles and dimes for quite a while, the filter (that was recalled and needs to be replaced often) is about 8$ at your local car parts store, and the fuel pump, is less than 100$. Basically the repairs are numerous, but cheap (possibly because of the need for numerous repairs). The cars are beautiful, and run well (when they don't need repairs) so if you have someone mechanically inclined that can help with low effort maintenance, then the Cougar can be a very fulfilling piece of machinery, if not, then I wouldn't recommend this car.

    Are changing brake drums as easy as changing disc brakes?

    I changed the front rotors and pads in my 02' Prizm myself, with great success. I just researched how the pads, rotors and calipers work together and how they are housed and bam I bought a couple jack stands, and a jack and I changed my front disc brakes for the first time, taking about 1.5 hrs. Now this car has drum brakes in the back, and I wanted to know how much harder is that to replace for someone like me you think? I now know how drum system's work, and have all the tools to change the brakes, but i wanna get an idea of what i should be expecting. Also if you have done this, is there any advice you would give me? Thanks!Are changing brake drums as easy as changing disc brakes?
    Take a picture of the shoes, springs and all the other stuff BEFORE you take it apart.



    You can do it.



    Got a spring brake tool?

    And retainer tool?



    You can do it without them, but it's a bugger getting it all back together.



    Oh, and a brake adjuster spoon too.Are changing brake drums as easy as changing disc brakes?
    If you are doing it for the first time it is best to jack up both sides of the car and set on jack stands pull both wheels and drums and use one side as a reference to put the other side back together a few more parts than the front pads but it is easy to do. This is how i learned many many years ago.Are changing brake drums as easy as changing disc brakes?
    I agree, do one side at a time and use the other as a reference. Its not as easy as disc brakes but you should be able to figure it out. Plan on it taking longer than a few hours your first time Good luck!Are changing brake drums as easy as changing disc brakes?
    You'll need a few drum brake tools - a tool to release and reinstall the springs and a tool to install the keepers against the shoes.

    Disassemble one side at a time and lay the springs out on the floor in the position that you removed them. It's good to have the other side as a guide if you get confused (keep in mind, it's a mirror image - left to right is reversed).

    Put a little dab of grease on the tabs where the shoes ride against the backing plate, check the self adjuster for proper operation, slap the drum back on and you should be good to go.

    If the pedal seems lower than usual, try tapping the brake while you back up - this will self adjust the brakes.Are changing brake drums as easy as changing disc brakes?
    its a pain in the *** getting it back together..disc brakes are a breeze compared to drums. need a spring tool of course. also when putting the drum back on the shoes mess with the star wheel to get the shoes to just be scraping the drum by a hair. good luckAre changing brake drums as easy as changing disc brakes?
    Easier if you are just going to change the drums, just take the old one off and replace it with the new one. But if you are talking about doing the whole back break system, then yes it can be, only because you have to take it a part and put it back together the right way. If you know how it works then you have it half beat.

    The only thing I can tell you that will make a difference is that, you should take your time and clean every thing as clean as possible.

    Make sure you clean or replace the masters as well as the shoes of course and make sure to bleed the entire system when you are done starting with the one that is farthest from the master break cylinder in the engine compartment which will be the right rear wheel.

    Good luck....peace....

    How long a Toyota celica would last?

    I have a 1998 toyota celica that has about 140K on it so far. Last month I ran into a problem that turns out to be the pressure plate need to be replaced.



    The repair cost is around 1K. Plus I have to change the shocks, brakes, rotors,very soon.



    Is it worth it? should I keep maintaining this car or should start looking for something else?How long a Toyota celica would last?
    My father still owns a 1980 Toyota Celica GT that had rolled the odometer five times. It was a five digit odometer, so that equates to roughly 500,000 miles.



    I owned a 1991 Toyota Celica GT with 270,000 miles, it had the same engine your '98 has. I sold it in running condition. It doesnt matter if its a Celica, a Corolla, A Supra, or an MR2. Toyotas last, plain and simple. And they are worth every penny you put into them.How long a Toyota celica would last?
    You should maintain the car. You'll have some headaches from time to time, just like your pressure plate, but with proper maintenance, your Celica will last as long as you want it to. Just look around on eBay. You'll find Celicas sometimes that have over 300,000 miles and are still running great.



    The biggest reason that you should maintain the car though is just because of cost. Sure, things are going to break as your car gets older, but your car has a lot of life in it, and no matter what, driving a car that is paid for is a better financial choice just because you are only paying maintenance costs, not maintenance and a car payment.How long a Toyota celica would last?
    I think it's still worth it, there are Celica's on ebay that have 60-100K more miles on them than yours selling as working or some freak %26quot;suddenly stopped working%26quot; problem.



    Either way it's the best looking Celica ever made and I'd hate to see someone get rid of it over a pressure plate and brakes.How long a Toyota celica would last?
    if you dont drive it like a dumbass and have the oil and filters changed regularly the engine will last forever but you'll always have maintenance on anything alot of miles for any toyoto is around 240 - 280,000 best of luck

    3 phase motor help (poles and rotor/ stator ratio)?

    i have been given a question, ive managed to answer the first part but this part i am finding difficult:



    Explain and show how a change in poles and/or rotor stator turns ratio could vary the slip and torque of an induction motor and the effect on motor speed any changes would have.



    any help with this question would be greatley appreciated.3 phase motor help (poles and rotor/ stator ratio)?
    If the supply frequency is 50Hz and the motor has two poles per phase (one north pole and one south pole), the motor will run at the synchronous speed, minus the slip speed (which is about 7% of the synchronous speed). This means that the rotor will turn at 3,000 - 180 = 2,790 RPM. There must be a substantial slip speed to ensure that the stator's rotating magnetic field, cuts the rotor bars and generates an EMF --- this is how the torque is produced.



    Now we come to the hard part --- if we have four poles per phase, one complete cycle of the rotating magnetic field, will take one half of a revolution. This means that the speed of the rotor will be about 1,395 RPM.



    Since power is the product of speed and torque, if the power remains constant and the speed decreases due to more poles per phase, the torque will increase. A 16 pole, 500 HP wound rotor motor, runs at about 175 RPM and produces enough starting torque to make your eyes water.

    What are the symptoms of sparkplugs going bad?

    I have a 1984 Ford F-150 truck with a 302 V8 engine in it. 5.0L.



    Anyway, how do I know if i need new spark plugs? I changed the distributor cap and rotor pin because they were all messed up but the sparks and wires i am not sure about. I have the plugs now but I dont want to change them if they dont need it. What will the truck do if the sparks in it are bad?What are the symptoms of sparkplugs going bad?
    it will be kind of hard to start,and will run a little sluggish,it may also loose power a lot,and not like going over hills real good,it will run weak all the time,usually when an engine is right they start up real fast,and run extremely good,id at least check the plugs in it to see if they was gaped right,if the gap gets too large in them they will use a lot more gas,good luck on it.What are the symptoms of sparkplugs going bad?
    Hi raven,



    Just take out the spark plug and see the condition and follwow the link..which will give out a good idea about the aprk oplug condition.To check a sparkplug and wire condition just pull out a Splug and connected to the connetor and get it touch with a earth like engine block or any unpainted nut and ask your helper to crank the engine ,the sparkplug should give out a blue spark.if it is yellow the parkplug may be bad.



    In your case since it is a 1984 vehicle you better change the spark plug wires and spark plugs..which will make a complete tuned vehicle.All the best.



    regards,

    Nataraj

    BahrainWhat are the symptoms of sparkplugs going bad?
    Change them now. You have already done 1/3 of a tune up already. You may find them to look bad when you remove them.

    Rough running and bad gas mileage and horse power lose are some symptoms.What are the symptoms of sparkplugs going bad?
    Misfire (miss), poor performance, bad gas mileage, black smoke on occasions... But for a ford owner, none of this is new.What are the symptoms of sparkplugs going bad?
    they should look pretty clean, normal. not worn, melted, electrode or any part of the plug dammaged. but most cars will have a carbon deposits on them.What are the symptoms of sparkplugs going bad?
    It's not that difficult, go ahead and do it one day when you are bored.What are the symptoms of sparkplugs going bad?
    change them every 10-15 k miles regardless . You could pull one out and look at it . Usual symptoms could be rough idle, poor gas mileage , poor acceleration ,and poor throttle response .etcWhat are the symptoms of sparkplugs going bad?
    Put the new spark plugs in the truck if you have them already, you may need wires too. Usually when you have problems with spark plugs or any other part of the electrical firing system, the car will lose power when put under a load ( going up hill, etc. )What are the symptoms of sparkplugs going bad?
    If they have been in for more than 10000 kms just change em with your leads.You will find it will run better and get a little bit better fuel milage.......But if you wanna check em,pull the plugs out one by one and see if they have a correct gap between the tip and the diode...Normally there is a plate under the bonnet specifieng the gap...Check to make sure the plug sint melted or all black.It should be a greyish brownish colour.
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  • Different rotors for manual and automatic?

    Why are there different rotors for my car, if it is a manual or automatic? I just bought some rotors for my new used car cause someone doesnt know how to change brakes, and the rotors cost me 60 each, if it was an automatic it would of been 20 each. Did I just get ripped off?Different rotors for manual and automatic?
    First off, if a parts man told me that I would be shopping around. I think it's more likely that there are 2 or 3 grades (90 day, one year and lifetime) and they happened to only have the lifetime in stock. The price may reflect a slightly higher quality product, but the price takes into account that you will probably be coming back for free rotors in the future. I never buy lifetime anything. Chances are, you won't own the car long enough to take advantage of it, or loose the receipt or something. If you haven't installed them, I would return them if I could find them somewhere else cheaper. Next time; shop and compare!Different rotors for manual and automatic?
    Uhhh.......What kind of car??



    Year.

    Make.

    Model.Different rotors for manual and automatic?
    Auto transmissions can add weight to a car, so sometimes the rotors are a different size (or other factors may effect them too), but this is not always the case.



    I try to find a part numbers from the original manufacturer and compare them between different models. If the part number matches, then they are the same size etc.... The trick is that if the part numbers are different it doesn't always mean the parts are different. The only definite method if part numers don't match is to compare the specifications, so for rotors, diameter, thickness etc...Different rotors for manual and automatic?
    Well yes it sounds like it. i have worked as a mechanic for over thirty years and never heard of such a thing. Kinda sounds like they sold you heavy duty rotors with a life time warrenty.Different rotors for manual and automatic?
    ripped off in what way.. the price was for two and you got one what... kind of car you have first is it manal and you got the one for auto if they fit then you might be ok if the dont fit then you got the wrong ones... where the old ones bad you know sometime the just turn them for 10 to 20 bucks each.... when working on a car you should know something about whats going on before buying thing you dont need and your just wasting money guessingDifferent rotors for manual and automatic?
    sounds like it you could of had the rotors turned for 5.00 if you bought them at the dealer that price sounds about right and who said you needed rotors .........Different rotors for manual and automatic?
    I have never heard of such a thing in all my years of working on cars that a stick shift takes a differen't rotor, I think someone took you for a ride.

    How hard is it to change the front brakes (pads and rotors) on a E36 BMW?

    not too bad but be carefull there is an a.b.s. sensor you wanna watch out for.if u acidently damage it it could cost a decent amount to fix.How hard is it to change the front brakes (pads and rotors) on a E36 BMW?
    With the right tools you should be able to do it in your own garage, just use quality tools so you won't round off the caliper bolts, and use a C-clamp to squeeze in the pistonsHow hard is it to change the front brakes (pads and rotors) on a E36 BMW?
    BMW. I would stay away... Dint get me wrong they are easy to change on Honda, Toyota, etc. but my step father tried it on my moms and we could never get the sensor back to normal.

    How to change brake pads on a 2003 mazda 6?

    I just recently bought a 2003 Mazda 6 with 25,000 mile on it. I notice that there is a slight sqeeke when I break and would like to change the pads now before they wear the rotor. I first thought about going to the shop but the idea of spending $150.00 per axal is appalling (especial when you consider that a set of pads for the front and another for the back only cost a total of $40.00). I also own a 1997 Mazda 626 and have done the front brakes on it a number of times. What I needed to know is is there any difference between changing the brakes on the old one versus the new one. Are there any special tools I need? Are there any free online resources for repair and maintanance? I tried to find a Chiltons or a Haynes at my local auto store but they don't have one for a Mazda 6. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Also I plan on doing the brakes today so that I may take a road trip this weekend. ThanksHow to change brake pads on a 2003 mazda 6?
    http://www.mazda6tech.com/index.php?opti



    http://www.mazda6tech.com/index.php?opti



    That site, and mazda6club.com have all the information you will ever need for your car.How to change brake pads on a 2003 mazda 6?
    No, brake pads technology hasn't changed. You could probably follow the same procedures you did on you 1997.



    The only special tools are what it takes to remove the calipers. Some use Torques, other allen, I prefer just the regular bolts but you'll have to take the wheel off to see what was used.



    Yeah, the Mazda 6 is too new to see anything on line too. (sorry)

    Autozone has put out a great set of manuals for all older vehicles that you can get online now.

    (ie for your 97 Mazda)

    http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker



    However like I said most brake systems haven't changed much and replacement has been done in the same fashion.How to change brake pads on a 2003 mazda 6?
    It is the same process for changing the pads on any car. What you are primarily paying for with brake jobs is labor. Yes, the parts are $40, but that means you are being billed $110 for labor, and since the standard labor rates for mechanics are around $60 an hour, that's about two hours work, which is about right.

    How much would this tune up cost?

    I have 97 thunderbird v-8 4.6 liter with 80,000 miles. Car runs fine except when i accelerate it bogs like at a stop sign or when i first start it. What would it cost to replace fuel filter,air filter,plugs and wires,distributor cap and rotor, PCV,oxygen sensor,Change the points and condenser, flush some fluids if it needs it like transmission or antifreeze. How much would this cost?How much would this tune up cost?
    Your engine does not have a distributor or points and a condenser so there would be no need for a cap, rotor or plug wires. Your engine is COP= coil over plug and it requires platinum spark plugs in fact double platinum's were used in that engine. It sounds like your just throwing parts at it to see if it will fix the problem rather than diagnosis the real problem. Your plugs are changed at 100,000 miles, so they are not due at this time. How about a fuel pressure test to see if the engine is getting enough fuel pressure to support acceleration and then go from there. Just a suggestion rather than throwing parts at it for no good reason. Transmission service and engine coolant flush is probably a good idea and can be done for under $200.00 parts included. Good Luck

    How much does it cost to change brake pads and rotors?

    I recently went to a car repair shop and these are the things that they want to do with my car... get new front and rear brakes, new front rotors, service front calipers and rear drums and bleed all system. The mechanic gave me an estimate of $454 including labor and parts. Is that a good deal or does that cost too much? My car is Nissan Altima 1999.How much does it cost to change brake pads and rotors?
    Yes you have to change your brake pad as quick as possible before it causes major damage to your metal disc. But the price what he has quoted is expansive. $ 350 should be alright for the good breaking pad including the the labor cost.How much does it cost to change brake pads and rotors?
    I would ask about the %26quot;service front calipers%26quot; part. Most new calipers are self adjusting and not serviceable. The days of rebuilding calipers are pretty much over with. Unless the caliper is frozen in the slides or leaking there isn't much to %26quot;service%26quot;. As far as the price goes I would say it sounds pretty fair. Probably about 2-2.5 hours of labor plus parts.How much does it cost to change brake pads and rotors?
    that's not a bad price for a shop to be doing the work,but the price for parts is about half that,the rest is labor.How much does it cost to change brake pads and rotors?
    Get another quote, but get it done quick or quit driving the car with bad brakes. Killing somebody because of money is just stupid.How much does it cost to change brake pads and rotors?
    I Just did all that on a Nissan Altima this morning for $300 (reputable shop)
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  • Distributor cap and rotor?

    If im changing the distruibtor cap and rotor, is ther a specific way i need to adjust the rotor? how should it be put on?

    i put the rotor on and distributor cap and the firing sequence is correct but it wont start...and it did before i change itDistributor cap and rotor?
    the rotor will only go on one way and the distriburator cap will only go on in one position so the clamps that hold it on will fasten so I would say you have the wires messed up, you will have to find out the firing order of your engine and get the wires in sequence.Distributor cap and rotor?
    Most rotors only go on one way .. they can only go on the same way it came off ... So unless you put the wires back on in a different order which can easily happen.... i would make real sure that your wirering order is correct .... Look in a haynes manual or a chiltons and make sure you have it right... Also turn your rotor over , you should see a slot cut out then look on the shaft you should see the same in reverse... good luckDistributor cap and rotor?
    Rotor only goes on 1 way! What does it do when you try to start it? Pop, spit, or crank normally?

    Can I hook up my own car alarm with remote start?

    I檓 a pretty technical person, and I檝e been hooking up car stereos amps speakers compacitors and so on since I was 16. I檓 24 now, I also built computers for years overclocking and have networked one of the most elaborate home networks I檝e ever seen. I got all 4 of my computers talking, print server, flashed the firmware in a wireless router to create a wireless bridge and stream media from my media center computer through the Xbox 360. I檝e also worked as a web designer and coder. I檝e also have done some work on cars like alternators, serpentine belts, starters, brakes rotors, oil change.

    I檓 a do-it-your-selfer mostly because I檓 broke.



    I want to install a remote starter and car alarm system on my wife 2007 Suzuki Grand Vitara. I got a system like this installed on my car and few years back and it cost me (parts and labor) $380. I檝e reasearched and I檝e found an instructional dvd that seems pretty informative on this subject. I can find these remote start/alarm system on the net for around $100 and the dvd is $40.



    I think I could hook one up myself, but I檝e just never done it before.

    How hard is this to do? Based on my background do you think I could do this? I檓 really looking for answer from people who has installed a system like this themselves

    Can I hook up my own car alarm with remote start?
    Sounds like you can do it, especially if you're experienced with the use of digital multimeters. Yes, you can download a %26quot;tech sheet%26quot; with wire colors, but it's never a good idea to trust the tech sheet entirely; and you may find more than one wire of the same color, so you'll need to know how to use a meter to test the functions.



    I'd suggest trying to download the installation manual for the remote start unit you're interested in. Many manuals are available for download at http://www.the12volt.com . Read through the entire manual, so that you understand how the system works (not just what each wire connects to). You might be able to install it just by hooking up the wires, but if it doesn't work as expected, you'll have to understand how it's supposed to work before you can troubleshoot it.



    Once you have your car's tech sheet, compare it to the owner's manual until you know which wires from the remote start are going to be connected, what they're connected to, what they'll be doing, and which wires you don't need at all.



    If there's something you don't understand after reading the manual and tech sheet, ask about it here or on a 12-volt forum before you start working on the car.



    Finally, leave yourself all day for the installation. Don't try to rush it.Can I hook up my own car alarm with remote start?
    I would say given your background as you have stated that I believe you should be able to install the unit yourself. One word of caution please be careful with the airbag system. Also do you know if the key you have for the car is a transponder type key? If it is you will need a bypass unit in order for it to start. The other thing that I would suggest is getting the right wiring diagram for you vehicle that will tell you exactly which wires to use and their location. With most remote start systems you will also have to run wires through the firewall for the siren and a tach signal.Can I hook up my own car alarm with remote start?
    If you are installing a remote start/alarm system unit that is all in one, it is rather easy, if you can follow directions. Since you have 'some' experience it will not be as hard.



    However i would suggest, instead of buying the 40$ dvd, use that money to find a wire data sheet for the vehicle to be installed. This will tell you what color wire in the vehicle is what.







    Below is a link from Bulldog security's website. I would still suggest buying a data sheet as it is most likely always correct. Also consider buying a multi-meter and learn how to use it, if you do not have one already.

    Front of my car Shaking?

    I have a 97 chrysler lhs and the front start shaking on me a few weeks ago and i was told it was a warped rotor...I changed the brakes and the rotor and the front is still shaking MOSTLY DURING STOPING..to describe how its like it feels like the wheel is not on tight....i took the car to my local tire place and used the air gun to make sure the tire was on tight . the rotors are on good and the caliber bolts are in sucure..WHAT IS CAUSING THE RATTLING AND SHAKING....thanks in advanceFront of my car Shaking?
    did you replace both front rotors ? possible tie rod is loose or ? ask at the tire shop when the car is on the lift to see anything visibly wrong

    How do you disengage the caliper when changing the brakes and rotors on a 94 Ford Explorer?

    We have the wheels off and are trying to remove the calipers and thought all we had to do was remove two bolts and the caliper would slide off, but there is some kind of %26quot;pin%26quot; holding it onto the drum. Please help -- I have to leave town today!How do you disengage the caliper when changing the brakes and rotors on a 94 Ford Explorer?
    First remove the cover from the master cylinder resevoir. Then place a chisel or punch on the corner of the outside end of one pin and strike it with a hammer, moving the notch of the pin inside the groove of the caliper and knuckle. Repeat this on the opposite corner of the same pin (still on the outside), and then you should be able to slide the pin all the way out the other side. Repeat this procedure on the other pin and then you should be able to remove the caliper. Compress it with big channel lock pliers or a c clamp so that it will fit over the new pads and rotors. You may see fluid coming from the master cylinder while compressing the pistons. This is OK but try to clean it up so that it does not damage any of the parts that it touches. It is a good idea to replace the pins with new ones because sometimes they are damaged during removal or just get worn and sloppy. You don't want to take a chance of having them slide out while driving! Make sure to reinstall the master cylinder cap when you are done. Good luck!How do you disengage the caliper when changing the brakes and rotors on a 94 Ford Explorer?
    Block the tires real good,then put it in neutral.How do you disengage the caliper when changing the brakes and rotors on a 94 Ford Explorer?
    well, there should not be any pin holding it to the drum.

    There is usually two types of breaks on these vehicles.Front disk brakes and rear drum brakes.

    There was an option for this vehicle to have 4 wheel disk brakes.If you have these it should be easy.

    On the brake calipers there is two bolts holding the caliper to the control arm.These are the only thing holding the caliper onto the rotor.

    The thing to remember is that the brake calipers have pressure pucks in them to push the brake pads against the rotors when you apply the brakes.

    Now, even though you have no one stepping on the brakes now, those pucks still are pretty tight against the rotors and makes it hard to get the calipers to slide off the rotor.

    I am going to tell you a trick to help release some of that pressure so they slide off easier.

    Have some one step on the brake pedal and hold it down while you release the side your working on's brake bleeder nut. (10mm nut with hole in center used to release air from the brake lines)Now, loosen it slightly while they hold down brake petal then close it after a couple seconds while they still have the brake pedal depressed.You should have had some fluid squirt out of it.What this is going to do is help release some of the pressure from them pucks and make it easier to slide caliper off rotor.The calipers slide upward to come off rotor in a complete Assembly.Repeat for all sides.

    Now also, before changing the new pads and trying to slide back onto rotor, you need to depress those pucks all the way. you can use a %26quot;C%26quot; clap and put it on center of puck and twist it in slow till you see it depress all the way down.then add ne brake shoes and slide on caliper over the rotor.

    Just remember to step on brakes a couple times after you complete all 4 brakes and have car back on its wheels before you start it and try to move it.Cause if you dont, you will have a few seconds with out any brakes because of depressing them pucks all the way.

    Good luck, you should do fine.How do you disengage the caliper when changing the brakes and rotors on a 94 Ford Explorer?
    if caliper dosn't come off easily you can carfully work a screwdriver between rotor and shoe to push plunger in a little, rotor probably has grooves, be careful not to break it

    How do i change my brakes on a 1997 nissan 200sx??r=1224347178?

    I need to change all four of my rotors and pads on my nissan 200sx(1997). I was wondering if anyone had a step by step proceedure on completing this task.How do i change my brakes on a 1997 nissan 200sx??r=1224347178?
    Go to Auto Zone and buy a Haynes manual. It'll give you step by step instructions plus some pictures.How do i change my brakes on a 1997 nissan 200sx??r=1224347178?
    Agree with first poster. Also have another jack, don't rely on the one that comes with the car, and if you can, have access to another car so you can go to the store if the pads are the wrong ones/ you break something etc.
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  • I have a ford f-150 w/302 engine and it started to have a miss and i changed the plugs cables rotor and cap .?

    while driving the truck the oil gauge is in normal zone but when i sit for s while the gauge starts to jump to the low side and goes back and forth. when i put it neutral it levels out. and also when im driving it starts to vibrate at any speed if i let off the gass pedal it stops or if i give it more gas it stops. i even changed the oxygen sensor as well . and also if i remove the oil fill cap the engine idles diffrently not much but you deffinetly can here it what could my problem be and how may i fix it.I have a ford f-150 w/302 engine and it started to have a miss and i changed the plugs cables rotor and cap .?
    Try the fuel filter next.I have a ford f-150 w/302 engine and it started to have a miss and i changed the plugs cables rotor and cap .?
    Faulty oil pressure sending unit causes the gauge to fluctuate. Not a big deal. Removing the fill cap causes a slight vacuum to develop in the crankcase and slightly restrict the amount of air entering the engine at idle. Perfectly normal. As for the vibration, I don't know.I have a ford f-150 w/302 engine and it started to have a miss and i changed the plugs cables rotor and cap .?
    i own a repair shop,and it sounds like you may have a vacuum leak on it somewhere,,you need to check it,and make sure you didn't knock anything off of it while you was working on it,,its real easy to do,,and you might not have noticed anything being off of it,,just check it over real good,,you,ll find It,,good luck,i hope this help,s,

    How do I change out Rear drum brake on a 2000 Dodge Neon to make them disk brakes like the front.?

    I have a 2000 Dodge Neon 2.0L I bought front/rear drilled and slotted rotors for. I am trying to change out the rear Drum brakes and replace it with an assembly to house calipers so I may use my matching Rotos on the back. I just got new rims and it looks very bad against the new rim.How do I change out Rear drum brake on a 2000 Dodge Neon to make them disk brakes like the front.?
    this would be an expensive and time consuming conversion.

    the brake lines, maybe master cylinder, and rear brake mounts would have to be changed, go to a junk yard and get all the parts off of a vehicle

    How difficult to do-it-urself brakes on Altima?

    My BFs brakes are in need of repair. Unfortunately we don't have the money its going to take to take it in to a repair shop. We've been doing research on the internet and found some pretty good step by step videos on how to do it but I know things like this are better left to the professionals. How difficult would it be to just buy the parts and change it himself (pads, rotors)? Thanks.How difficult to do-it-urself brakes on Altima?
    Its pretty easy, just get a giant C-clamp to push the brake piston in, so you dont have to bleed the brake system. Shouldnt take but maby 25 mins a side even for beginners.

    How much is a tune up 1987 Iroc z?

    Total price Im talking all fluids changed from the radiator to the differential in th rear end. Changing plugs, wires, cap, rotor and all the belts.How much is a tune up 1987 Iroc z?
    the 87 iroc-z is a model ive worked on considerably, from engine swaps trans swaps rearend swaps, to major tuneups,radiator swaps, and coolant flushes. On the diff. oil change, your looking at about one hour labor, and maybe 2 qts gear oil, plus G.M. wants you to add a bottle of their hypoid gear additive.so depending on labor rates in your area thats about a hundred dollars.trans oil and filter another hour and a filter for ten bucks with gasket and 4- 6 qts oil, another 15 bucks, for a hundred and ten or so. Coolant flush a hundred should cover it. tuneup with new wires, and dist cap and rotor, which that year has, 1. 5 hours and a hundred and twenty bucks for parts,so two forty or so.Oil change, tweny five in parts, twenty five in labor.How much is a tune up 1987 Iroc z?
    that is mor than a tune up

    at least 300 but not mor than 800 depends ware you go to get it dunHow much is a tune up 1987 Iroc z?
    $200 roughly

    including All fluids . The tranny takes 3 gallons of fluid

    How can you tell if the ignition control module is bad?

    I done a simle tune up. i got it all changed spark plugs, wires, rotor button, distributor cap, now it cranks but wont start. getting good fire from coil just none from distributor to plugs?How can you tell if the ignition control module is bad?
    Double check to see if your rotor and cap are both seated correctly.How can you tell if the ignition control module is bad?
    take out all the guess work out of it take it to like a auto-zone they test it for freeHow can you tell if the ignition control module is bad?
    If you had a bad ignition control module you wouldn't get any spark from the coil at all. Your problem lies in the wires. Either the coil wire is not inserted all the way at both ends which is why there is no power at the distributor or some of the wires are switched. I am thinking the wires are switched or not inserted all the way and are not making a good contact. Sure to make sure they are all making contacts.
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  • I need exact instructions on how to change front brakes and rotors on a 2000 mustang.?

    I want to change my brakes and rotors myself. No one thinks a girl can work on a car and I will prove them wrong! I have always done my own work on my car and will continue to do it. It has been years since I have done this though. I want to walk straight out there with the right tools in hand, and finish this job before they could even get started. I have done this before, but not to this car. I need answers ASAP please! If possible, please include socket sizes as well. Thanks!

    -Oh, I don't have the book here with me. It's at my old apartment. I'm not going to get it.I need exact instructions on how to change front brakes and rotors on a 2000 mustang.?
    you ask for a lot for 10 points, GOOD LUCK!



    REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION

    Pads Removal

    1. Remove brake master cylinder filler cap. Check brake fluid level in brake master cylinder reservoir. Remove fluid until brake master cylinder reservoir is half full

    2. Raise and support the vehicle

    3. Remove the wheel and tire assembly

    4. CAUTION: Install new pads if worn to or past the specified thickness above the metal backing plate or rivets. Install pads in complete axle sets

    Inspect the pads for wear and contamination

    5. Remove the caliper bolts

    1. Hold the guide pins stationary

    2. Remove and discard the caliper bolts

    6 CAUTION: Do not pry in caliper sight hole to retract pistons as this can damage the pistons and boots

    CAUTION: When removing the disc brake caliper, never allow it to hang from the brake hose. Provide a suitable support

    Lift the caliper off the anchor plate

    7. Remove the pads and the pad slippers

    1. Remove the pads and verify thickness

    2. Remove and discard slippers

    8. Measure the front brake disc thickness

    路 Install a new front brake disc if not within specification

    9. Inspect the disc brake caliper

    路 If leaks or damaged boots are found, disassembly is required

    10. Inspect the front disc brake anchor plate assembly

    路 Check the guide pin boots for damage

    路 Check the guide pins for binding and damage

    路 Worn or damaged pins should be installed new



    Installation

    1. CAUTION: Do not allow grease, oil, brake fluid or other contaminants to contact the pad lining material. Do not install contaminated pads

    NOTE: Install all hardware supplied with pad kits

    Install the pads

    1. Install the new pad slippers

    2. Install the pads

    2. NOTE: Use a wood block or used pad to protect pistons and boots. Compress the caliper pistons

    3. Make sure the anti-rattle spring is correctly positioned in the caliper

    4. CAUTION: Use care not to damage the bleeder screw or front brake disc shield

    Install the disc brake caliper

    1. Hold the guide pins stationary

    2. Install the caliper bolts

    5. Install the wheel and tire assembly

    6. Lower the vehicle

    7. Fill the brake master cylinder reservoir with clean High Performance DOT 3 Brake Fluid, Install brake master cylinder filler cap

    8. Inspect brake operation



    Disc

    Removal

    1. Remove the front disc brake caliper anchor plate

    2. Match mark the hub and the brake disc

    3. If necessary, remove and discard the keeper nuts

    4 Remove the brake disc from the hub



    Installation

    1. Clean rust and foreign material from the mating surfaces of the hub and brake disc

    2. Apply High Temperature Nickel Anti-Seize Lubricant

    3. Align the match marks and install the brake disc

    4. Install the anchor plate

    5. Check the total indicated runout (TIR)

    1996 Jeep- how to get the rear rotors off?

    I'm trying to change the rear rotor on my Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited 5.2 L. I took off the caliper, brake pads and I still cannot get the rotor to come off. Is there anything else that connects the rotor like emergency brake, etc. Thanks Mike1996 Jeep- how to get the rear rotors off?
    Did you see any set screws sometimes they are on there, or you may want to take some liquid wrench and soak the rotors and let sit for about ten mins and the knock the crap out of it sometimes they need to be heated to be removed, it is caused by your brakes getting hot so they kind of weld on there

    How to change spark plug wire on a 94 Taurus Station wagon?

    Hi,



    Can anyone tell me how to change the spark plug wires on my 94 Taurus wagon. The gas station wanted to charge us $500 to change them along with the distributor cap/rotor and spark plugs.



    We found a video on how to do the others ...and its pretty straight forward. Please share any insight you may have.



    ThanksHow to change spark plug wire on a 94 Taurus Station wagon?
    Take the old ones off one at a time. Match it to a new one and put the new one back on in it's place. DO NOT PULL THEM ALL OFF AT ONCE or you can easily mess up the firing order.How to change spark plug wire on a 94 Taurus Station wagon?
    They just snap on the spark plug on one side and the distributor cap on the other, just twist a little while pulling up on it. Do one at a time so you dont mix them up.How to change spark plug wire on a 94 Taurus Station wagon?
    Twist the rubber boot back and forth to remove the wire and use DIELECTRIC grease to replace them.